Winterizing a Jeep YJ

[SquareFace]

Subject: Best Way to Prevent Rust & Winterize a Jeep YJ?

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ and I’m looking for advice on how to keep it as rust-free as possible and in good shape through the winter. I’ll be parking it in the garage before the salt hits the roads here in Illinois, and I want to make sure I’m doing everything right.

Specifically:

• Before storage — What should I do to protect against rust and winter damage?
• During storage — Is there anything I should be doing while it’s sitting (e.g. starting it up.)?
• Engine care — What’s the best way to ensure a smooth startup in spring? Battery tender? Fuel stabilizer?

Would really appreciate any tips or routines that have worked well for you. Thanks in advance!

 

[Chief Hof]

Evening!

Before Storage:
1) Give it a good wash.
2) Make sure the tire pressures are good.
3) Put Sta-bil in the tank and fill it up to keep condensation out. Sta-bil goes in first, then add gas so that it mixes in, the drive back to the house should be good enough to get the Sta-bil into the lines and carb.
4) Consider changing the oil as well.

During Storage:
1) Put a cover on it.
2) Consider driving it periodically. I live in Jersey where the roads get treated during snow events, but I do drive it at least one or two times a month in order to get it up to speed and temperature, but only when sunny and dry, and the road treatment has sufficiently dissipated. It's better to drive it for a bit than to let it sit and idle. Plus, by moving it you'll eliminate flat spots on your tires.
3) If you don't plan on driving it, disconnect the battery and put it up on jack stands. If your garage gets too cold, consider putting the battery in a warmer part of the house. I park my YJ in a non- heated barn during the winter and have never had any starting issues due to a dead battery by simply disconnecting the negative cable. Trickle charger works as well, I've just never had a need for it. That might be a better solution for you though depending on how extreme your winter temps get.

 

[SquareFace]

@Chief Hof . Thank you. I will do exactly this! So helpful.

 

[Chief Hof]

No worries....happy to help!

 

[SquareFace]

Anything particular to do for under the Vehicle? Suspension/Frame? Besides not driving it on salt treated roads?

 

[Chief Hof]

Morning...not so much. I usually hit mine with a good rinse. You might what to get a grease gun and apply new grease to your ball joints and steering linkages. Although not neccessarily related to winterizing, I'll periodically take a 'rattle can' and hit the suspension components and frame areas that may have surface rust on them. I prefer to use Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Satin Black. There are also a couple of tub areas you might want to pay attention to while you're underneath your YJ. I'll take some pictures of mine so you have an idea of where I'm talking about and get them to you via this thread later today. I'll also highlight the frame areas that you may want to pay attention to as well just in case you're new to the YJ community and not familiar...

 

[SquareFace]

Thank you! Yes I am extremely new to

 

[Will E]

I like the prior advice. Only thing I would add is…during the rinse use a creeper and a scrub brush and spend about 20 minutes getting the underneath free of collected mud/sand/salt etc. where safety glasses. After all is dry I use 3 or 4 cans of Fluid Film on frame and rust prone areas. Avoid spraying fluid film on rotors

 

[SquareFace]

Great advice @Will E ! Thank you

 

[Chief Hof]

Good advice Will! I came across this guy on YouTube...he doesn't talk about winterizing, but does a good job of showing areas prone to tust. Keep in mind, these are worst case examples, but the areas he points out, especially regarding the frame are common.

 

[SquareFace]

Good advise Will! I came across this guy on YouTube...he doesn't talk about winterizing, but does a good job of showing areas prone to tust. Keep in mind, these are worst case examples, but the areas he points out, especially regarding the frame are common.

That video was awesome! I just learned so much. Thank you.

 

[Chief Hof]

No worries! As discussed:

This is the rear leaf spring aft mount detail. The area around the shackles is prone to corrosion. Just to the left and above is the aft most body mount. If you ever plan on installing a body lift or replacing the bushings, proceed with caution as these bolt are prone to corrosion and can snap off when trying to remove them. I recommend that if your bushings are in good shape to leave them alone. This goes for all of your bushings.

This is the frame cut-out located above the back wheels. They're put there in order to strap the Jeep down on the transportation trailer when delivered from the factory. If your YJ has been wheeled a lot in it's past life, chances are water got in there and over time may create rust from the inside out. This is a good place to apply the spray Will was referencing since it displaces any water and coats the inside of the frame..

This is the rear shock upper mount. It's welded to the frame near the back wheels and forward of the axle. Water can pool up in the void and create rust.

This is your transmission pan which is attached to the frame by 3 bolts on each side. It's easy to locate as it's installed to the frame below the floor pan just below the seats. The bolt areas are known to rust completely through. This not only serves as a skid plate but it also serves as the transmission mount. Use caution when removing these bolts for transmission maintenance (clutch change, etc). Note the body mount just above the pan.

The next two photo show the area where the #1 body mount is located (looking forward). This area in just aft of the front wheels and is often over looked. There's somewhat of a shelf there and this is an area of the tub where corrosion can form.

Those are the big rocks...keep us posted on your progress, welcome to the YJ life, Brother!

 

[SquareFace]

Thank you @Chief Hof . I’m going to buy the products and start hunting for those spots. I may reach out if that’s ok.

 

[Chief Hof]

You bet...talk to you soon. Btw, did you post vitals on your YJ (condition, miles, engine size, transmission type, etc)?

 

[SquareFace]

You bet...talk to you soon. Btw, did you post vitals on your YJ (condition, miles, engine size, transmission type, etc)?

Yes. Just checked and the info is there.

 

[dan.john]

Evening!

Before Storage:
1) Give it a good wash.
2) Make sure the tire pressures are good.
3) Put Sta-bil in the tank and fill it up to keep condensation out. Sta-bil goes in first, then add gas so that it mixes in, the drive back to the house should be good enough to get the Sta-bil into the lines and carb.
4) Consider changing the oil as well.

During Storage:
1) Put a cover on it.
2) Consider driving it periodically. I live in Jersey where the roads get treated during snow events, but I do drive it at least one or two times a month in order to get it up to speed and temperature, but only when sunny and dry, and the road treatment has sufficiently dissipated. It's better to drive it for a bit than to let it sit and idle. Plus, by moving it you'll eliminate flat spots on your tires.
3) If you don't plan on driving it, disconnect the battery and put it up on jack stands. If your garage gets too cold, consider putting the battery in a warmer part of the house. I park my YJ in a non- heated barn during the winter and have never had any starting issues due to a dead battery by simply disconnecting the negative cable. Trickle charger works as well, I've just never had a need for it. That might be a better solution for you though depending on how extreme your winter temps get.

What is the point of putting it up on jack stands? Keeping the weight off the tires?

 

[Chief Hof]

Morning and yes, Sir. Prevents flat spots and extends tire longevity.