Where are the ground locations on a 1993 YJ 2.5 auto?
- Thread starter redbullet
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You can always add you own as well. Get a few of the strap type and go from the frame to the block,frame to body main tub and one for the bolted on front fender parts where the headlights are ect. Im sure there are plenty little factory ones like the 2 headlights,block to body, a dash cluster one which lands who knows were.
OP
There is still no 93 2.5 auto. However the grounds are mostly in the same spot regardless of year or transmission as long as they’re fuel injected. Factory service manual will tell you where all the locations are.
OP
The engines are all the same but the transmission was not available until 94. So you may not have a typical setup anyways. The typical grounds are on the engine block, firewall, a grille. A few other random ones.
Why do you think you need to mess with grounds? Any specific issues going on?
OP
I have a .7 amp electrical draw on the 30 amp fuse for fuel pump ecu - this has the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay on it. I am cleaning up the grounds for the heck of it. How would you go about checking these circuits? So far I have only tried swapping out the relays.
When testing that draw, where are you testing it? Putting your leads on either sides of the 30A fuse?
Trying to figure out where exactly you are in the circuit and what is downstream from what you’re testing.
Looks like that circuit splits and goes straight to the relays and nothing else. If you remove either of the relays does the amp draw stop? Seems like it should.
Maybe a stuck relay? The ASD and fuel pump circuits power the fuel pump, injectors and coil although the PCM isn’t supposed to ground any of those until it wants to use them so I’d think your draw exists in the relays. Though 0.7A draw is high for a simple little relay to draw.
Maybe a stuck relay? The ASD and fuel pump circuits power the fuel pump, injectors and coil although the PCM isn’t supposed to ground any of those until it wants to use them so I’d think your draw exists in the relays. Though 0.7A draw is high for a simple little relay to draw.
OP
I have the negative terminal off the battery and am putting the negative multimeter probe to the negative battery post, the positive probe is on the unhooked negative cable. It reads .7amp draw. When I pull the 30 fuse the draw goes to zero. Pulling either relay has not helped. I also took the fuse box off and popped the cover to look for any burnt wires, etc. and it looks good.
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It sounds like cleaning your ground locations will not help your problem. It sounds like you are getting a partial short somewhere down stream of the fuse.
Yeah I’m not really seeing where the problem could possibly be here. According to the diagrams I have the wire leaving the fuse splits to ASD and fuel pump relay as the power side of both of those relays. If pulling the relays doesn’t fix anything then you’d have to have a short between the fuse and the relay spots.
If you have confirmed there is no short between the fuse and the two relays and confirmed that power wire from the fuse does not also split to go elsewhere, then I’d have to throw my hands up and say I have no idea what else could be the problem.
If you have confirmed there is no short between the fuse and the two relays and confirmed that power wire from the fuse does not also split to go elsewhere, then I’d have to throw my hands up and say I have no idea what else could be the problem.
OP