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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 429381" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p><strong>Clutch, Flywheel, Timing Chain, & Rear Main Seal (Part II)</strong></p><p></p><p>After a few days, I've made some more decent progress! I received all the parts except the harmonic balancer on Wednesday, so I've been doing bit by bit after work since. Wednesday I got the Cloyes double roller chain installed, as well as the new Mopar timing cover. It just so happens that the Mopar timing cover now includes a built in spacer for the AC idler pulley, so I don't even need the 1/4" spacer anymore! The pulley now lines up with the other pulleys on it's own perfectly. I don't have AC but eventually when I add it back, that will be handy.</p><p></p><p>Fancy new Cloyes double roller chain...</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117478[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Mopar timing cover installed!</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117477[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Last night, I cleaned up the oil pan bolts in the sink, as well as got the oil pan gasket surface at the bottom of the engine sparkly clean. I installed the later model girdle onto the studs and then the oil pan and gasket. The pan and gasket were a pain to do by myself, but I got it done quick enough. Everything went up without a hitch.</p><p></p><p>Girdle in place....oil pan surface was NOT clean yet.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117479[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Nice new oil pan...fit perfectly.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117481[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Oil pan in place! Looks a lot better than the nasty oil-covered gray one I had previously.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117474[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117476[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>After finishing up the oil stuff, I hung the Centerforce flywheel late last night. For those unaware, a 40 lb flywheel is a BITCH to install by yourself! Heavy, wants to fall off the crank before you get the bolts in, and due to the bolt holes being unevenly spaced (on purpose), you have to figure out the proper flywheel to crank alignment of the bolt holes before you can actually bolt it down. This makes for up to 6 trial-and-error attempts to get it aligned properly. The worst part is that the flywheel cover plate has to go on the crank first, and it does not want to stay up on the engine while you install the flywheel. It's best to just have a helper, but I did make do without, albeit it took a bit longer and more tries.</p><p></p><p>The flywheel comes coated in oil, so I will clean it with some simple green or brake cleaner before bolting the clutch to it. The bolts are ARP 146-2801. They are 12 point and come with an assembly lube. Dab them in the lube and install. Torque to 105 ft lbs in a star pattern like you would a 6-lug wheel. Use a flywheel holder tool to hold the flywheel still, or have someone put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt to hold the crank still while you torque it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117475[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Tonight, I will hang the clutch, stab the transmission, and start buttoning 'er up. There is some good peace of mind knowing how much time I spent making sure everything was wiped clean and detailed out. This engine was filthy after the RMS and oil pan leaking for a few years. Feels good to have it clean again, and hopefully it stays clean for a while. I attribute much of the leaking to me not driving it for 4 years now. Thankfully that will change soon.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 429381, member: 18789"] [B]Clutch, Flywheel, Timing Chain, & Rear Main Seal (Part II)[/B] After a few days, I've made some more decent progress! I received all the parts except the harmonic balancer on Wednesday, so I've been doing bit by bit after work since. Wednesday I got the Cloyes double roller chain installed, as well as the new Mopar timing cover. It just so happens that the Mopar timing cover now includes a built in spacer for the AC idler pulley, so I don't even need the 1/4" spacer anymore! The pulley now lines up with the other pulleys on it's own perfectly. I don't have AC but eventually when I add it back, that will be handy. Fancy new Cloyes double roller chain... [ATTACH type="full" width="366px" alt="IMG_3434.jpeg"]117478[/ATTACH] Mopar timing cover installed! [ATTACH type="full" width="370px" alt="IMG_3436.jpeg"]117477[/ATTACH] Last night, I cleaned up the oil pan bolts in the sink, as well as got the oil pan gasket surface at the bottom of the engine sparkly clean. I installed the later model girdle onto the studs and then the oil pan and gasket. The pan and gasket were a pain to do by myself, but I got it done quick enough. Everything went up without a hitch. Girdle in place....oil pan surface was NOT clean yet. [ATTACH type="full" width="529px" alt="IMG_3448.jpeg"]117479[/ATTACH] Nice new oil pan...fit perfectly. [ATTACH type="full" width="529px" alt="IMG_3426.jpeg"]117481[/ATTACH] Oil pan in place! Looks a lot better than the nasty oil-covered gray one I had previously. [ATTACH type="full" width="530px" alt="IMG_3465.jpeg"]117474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="525px"]117476[/ATTACH] After finishing up the oil stuff, I hung the Centerforce flywheel late last night. For those unaware, a 40 lb flywheel is a BITCH to install by yourself! Heavy, wants to fall off the crank before you get the bolts in, and due to the bolt holes being unevenly spaced (on purpose), you have to figure out the proper flywheel to crank alignment of the bolt holes before you can actually bolt it down. This makes for up to 6 trial-and-error attempts to get it aligned properly. The worst part is that the flywheel cover plate has to go on the crank first, and it does not want to stay up on the engine while you install the flywheel. It's best to just have a helper, but I did make do without, albeit it took a bit longer and more tries. The flywheel comes coated in oil, so I will clean it with some simple green or brake cleaner before bolting the clutch to it. The bolts are ARP 146-2801. They are 12 point and come with an assembly lube. Dab them in the lube and install. Torque to 105 ft lbs in a star pattern like you would a 6-lug wheel. Use a flywheel holder tool to hold the flywheel still, or have someone put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt to hold the crank still while you torque it. [ATTACH type="full" width="543px" alt="IMG_3470.jpeg"]117475[/ATTACH] Tonight, I will hang the clutch, stab the transmission, and start buttoning 'er up. There is some good peace of mind knowing how much time I spent making sure everything was wiped clean and detailed out. This engine was filthy after the RMS and oil pan leaking for a few years. Feels good to have it clean again, and hopefully it stays clean for a while. I attribute much of the leaking to me not driving it for 4 years now. Thankfully that will change soon. [/QUOTE]
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My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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