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YJ103

YJ103

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2020
Messages
33
Location
Boston
So I've been reading lots here about people wanting to lift their jeep and looking for recommendations. I just had one installed so I thought I'd offer my experience.

First, this would be my first "lifted" jeep, so I did a fair amount of research before buying my kit. Lots of posts here about the pros and cons of Rough Country/Rubicon Express/Old Man Emu/ etc., plenty of videos on Youtube about installation, ride, build quality, durability and such. While the RC seems to be the most popular (probably due to the $499 price tag) and the RC got some good feedback, I chose the OME 2.5" kit. It universally seemed to get the best reviews overall with one caveat- it's pricey.

Now, let me say this upfront. I'll probably never take this jeep seriously offroading. I'm not looking to spend beacoup $$$ adding all sorts of accessories and add-ons. It's basically driven locally and to the beach. I park it in a heated garage for the winter because the first thing I did to this jeep when I got it home was to take the top and doors off and store them away, never to be seen again until someday if I sell it. And my wife has to be able to drive it.

Since the jeep came with 31's, a 2.5" lift would be a nice way to make the jeep look like a jeep should. The kit was almost $700 more than the RC at $1100, and $300 more than the RE, It was worth every penny. I've been driving around for almost a week since the install and couldn't be happier. It has a nice ride, not too harsh, not to soft. I ordered my kit with the "light duty" option at the recommendation of someone here on this forum and it probably rides better than new. It certainly rides better than the 25 year old suspension with 186k miles on it rode when I bought it.

Truth be told, I had a local shop install the kit. It cost me an additional $350 for that. While the kit looked pretty straightforward with just shocks and new leaf springs, I really just didn't have the time to do it.

Now, I don't want knock the other kits. They are certainly more affordable and they wouldnt be as popular as they are if they sucked. Every lift kit has its own issues. I chose to wait and save the extra money over the winter for the OME kit, and I'm glad I did.

PS- when I ordered the kit it was a 6 week backorder. I received it in 4 weeks.

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Looks great! I'm glad you're really liking how it turned out. I feel like a damn OME salesman or something when I talk about it but seriously my mind was blown at the results. Now to just get my YJ done so I can actually drive and enjoy my suspension like you are.
 
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jeepjoe43 said:
Don't feel bad, Macho is talking me out of my RC'c as well....I'm not impressed with the RC's.
But they're what I have for now.
$ was indeed the draw for me, but plans change.
Jeeps do that, like it or not.
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Actually, I agree with YJ103 that for the cost, RC is a fair deal. What I don't like about RC are the leaf spring bushings (cheap pressed in bushings that deteriorate in like a year or two - and are a PITA to remove!) and their poor business model where they know the bushings suck and want to sell you a set of upgraded bushings when you come back in a year or two complaining that your bushings are dead (and naturally your bushing warranty is gone already). Other than that, their springs are decent for a not so crazy hardcore Jeep.

Their shocks weren't great but considering the cost of the kit, the savings could be used to buy better shocks and still save money.

And, RC rode better than the BDS I paid double the RC cost for, so honestly RC could be much worse than it is. The ride quality was not like OME but it was much better than BDS and if I recall, better than my stock stuff was by a hair.
 
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They sell OME bushing kits for stock shackles (non greasable), and for OME shackles (greasable triangles).

The problem with OME and their whole bushing and shackle mess is that the springs are a non standard width since they're Australian and metric. Standard YJ springs are 2.5" wide. OMEs are like 50MM I believe, I don't remember exactly.

So when you buy a bushing kit, they give you bushings that have narrower flanges and bushings with wider flanges. the wider flanges go on the springs to make up for the narrower spring. The thinner flange bushings go in the frame. And then the other set of bushings and the sleeve they give you goes on the solid frame attachment, since that location uses a larger bolt. That specific sleeve is the perfect OD for the bushing in that location, and also perfect for the stock YJ bolt. That is why they give you that one sleeve and that one bushing set.

The issue with OME greasable bushings on NON OME shackles (RE for example) is that the greasable bushings are means for the thick funky bolt stud things OME supplies in their shackle kits. It's like a cylinder with a grease channel, and then studded ends so you can attach to the OME shackles with nuts. From what I read, it is tough to find a sleeve and bolt that properly fits the OME bushings to use them with another shackle (again, like RE).

I think you MIGHT be able to use other brand bushings in the OME springs, but I believe the OME springs have a larger eye diameter, and most bushings end up too small for the OME springs. Also, since the springs are narrower, most aftermarket bushings are too long, so you have to trim the ends off a bit.

Bottom line - everything works better with OME or stock components (choosing the bushing kit accordingly). You can make other options work but I don't know what options those are, and the research gave me a headache to figure out so I ponied up the big bucks and bought their shackles and greasable bushings.
 
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I was fortunate to be able to use all the stock shackles- and I presume the stock shackle bolts- with my kit. My installer even made a remark about how clean the undercarriage was and how easily everything came out and was reusable (benefits of buying a southern vehicle). The kit came with all the poly bushings and bolted right in. But again, I'm not really doing much serious 'wheeling, either.
 
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YJ103 said:
I was fortunate to be able to use all the stock shackles- and I presume the stock shackle bolts- with my kit. My installer even made a remark about how clean the undercarriage was and how easily everything came out and was reusable (benefits of buying a southern vehicle). The kit came with all the poly bushings and bolted right in. But again, I'm not really doing much serious 'wheeling, either.
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Nothing wrong with the stock stuff at all since OME has options for it. I only didn’t go that route because I don’t have the stock stuff anymore and it would have cost nearly as much to buy it all than just doing the greasable OME stuff.
 
If I go with 4.5" lift kit do I need to extend drive shaft (or purchase new one) and need a slip yoke eliminator? The $$$ adding up. Perhaps go with 2.5"-3" Lift on 33's. Any help will be greatly appreciated
 
RoxxRocks said:
If I go with 4.5" lift kit do I need to extend drive shaft (or purchase new one) and need a slip yoke eliminator? The $$$ adding up. Perhaps go with 2.5"-3" Lift on 33's. Any help will be greatly appreciated
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IMO you're typically safe up to about 2.5" on the stock driveshaft. The angles just get to be too severe on larger lifts. A longer driveshaft would mitigate the risk of the driveshaft falling out on suspension droop but it doesn't solve the angle issue. Stock driveshafts are short so raising the Jeep at all drastically increases the angles and u-joints just aren't capable of handling much change from stock.

Do a 2.5" lift and add a 1-1.25" body lift.

If you do the rough country lift, remove the shims and either install the springs with no shims, or buy some 2 degree shims and a transfer case drop kit. The 6 degree shims they supply are not ideal for anything except a SYE and double cardan driveshaft.
 
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machoheadgames said:
IMO you're typically safe up to about 2.5" on the stock driveshaft. The angles just get to be too severe on larger lifts. A longer driveshaft would mitigate the risk of the driveshaft falling out on suspension droop but it doesn't solve the angle issue. Stock driveshafts are short so raising the Jeep at all drastically increases the angles and u-joints just aren't capable of handling much change from stock.

Do a 2.5" lift and add a 1-1.25" body lift.

If you do the rough country lift, remove the shims and either install the springs with no shims, or buy some 2 degree shims and a transfer case drop kit. The 6 degree shims they supply are not ideal for anything except a SYE and double cardan driveshaft.
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Thank you for the quick response, much appreciated. I, like others are going nuts researching and am Sooo glad to have this forum. You all are a big help. I want to hit some trails, (Badlands Indiana n dunes Silver Lake, Michigan) nothing too crazy this coming season with my bgsd, Lou

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Gilaguy23 said:
You have some nads of steel Roxx :) Been thinking of offing in the top but I just cant hang with the cold anymore. Guess its time I man up ;)
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It was awesome! Retired Chicago Piledriver local #578...33yrs in the trades will put a pair on ya for sure lol might as well have some fun! We got some interesting responses, big 'ol smiles, waves and pointing.

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