Just bought 95 YJ and it died immediately

Woodstockmck

New Member
Joined
May 31, 2023
Messages
2
Location
Colorado
Yesterday I bought a 95 YJ with a 2.7 L 4-cylinder engine that has 86k miles on it.
I test drove it the previous day, previous owner seemed like a good dude. It was a little quirky in that it needed to get to higher rpm’s before shifting to maintain speed, especially from 3rd to 4th if I wanted to get higher speeds in 4th, but once I got that figured out I had it going 70 in 4th and 80 in 5th. Felt good. I figured I’d reset the ECU to suit me but didn’t make it that far.

Previous owner told me the only thing he knew of was that the fuel pump would need replaced pretty soon, per a mechanics recommendation. It would stall once in a while on him but start right back up, he said. Otherwise it is in good mechanical shape, looks great with a bunch of fun upgrades. He said he ran it around yesterday for a while to say goodbye to it before I picked it up in the evening.

I live an hour away, and filled the gas tank before heading towards home. Made it about 4 miles up the state highway and it cut out, like a kill switch had been thrown. Had to come to a full stop before starting it again, wouldn’t start trying to turn the key while rolling after it died, but coming to a stop, sitting for a few seconds, and pumping the throttle a bit, it starts right back up. Continued, made it only like a half mile, does it again. Same, come to a stop, sit a few seconds, starts up. Repeat, make it less distance, dies. Repeat, even less distance, then less, then less. Got to a straight, flat dirt road where I could mess with it more. It would die at high rpm’s, low rpm’s; at first it had died in 4th gear, but later died in 3rd, 2nd, 1st. Finally it was only making it like 50 feet before dying. So it got worse. It wasn’t sputtering or hesitating, it would just cut out suddenly.

I was thinking fuel issues because of the mentioned fuel pump problem, but checked the shrader valve (I think that’s what you call the little nipple on the fuel rail) and fuel squirts meaning it has pressure.

Thinking whether it was getting spark - checked the main spark cable from the battery with a screwdriver and there was spark. I visually looked around for wires that looked strange or corroded, but with my limited knowledge and experience I didn’t see anything that raised a red flag. At first I’m thinking of replacing the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and cables, ignition coil too maybe though I found a video to test that with a multimeter before I pay for a new coil. Found videos to test the O2 sensors too. There is a Napa in the little mountain town near where it died that can loan me some tester tools, maybe check fuel pressure, see if there Is anything there in the pressure regulator or if fuel is going back in to the tank meaning fuel pump valve problem. I don’t even know if it’s fuel injected. I hope it’s not ECM.

I’m heading back down there to where I had to park it by the side of the road (took out starter relay so hopefully nobody jacked it). I found this forum and found some threads with things to look for but I’m new to having a Jeep again - had one 20 years ago and now that I’m in need of a new daily I decided to get this instead of another Subaru for driving around the mountains.

Any help would be much appreciated. This is such a bummer. I was so stoked to start driving this home yesterday. Made it 6 damn miles.
 
The check engine light wasn’t on but I just got back to the vehicle and did the key dance. Threw codes :

11*: No crank reference signal detected during cranking. Timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent loss of either camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor.
51**: A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
33 and 12 as well but those don’t matter.

51 should have given me a check engine light according to that site but I didn’t have one.

So I’m looking to try and use a multimeter to test the crankshaft position sensor. While I’m at Napa I’m gonna buy distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and cables too.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of yj’s. Looks like you are on the right track, in terms of addressing the codes. Best of luck to you!
 
Testing the crank position sensor is a good start, that is what I suspect is the problem even before seeing those codes. Classic YJ/TJ problem.
 
First thing to do is see what if any mods have been made. 95 yj 4cyl is fuel injected so probably not as many as mine (90 4.2 258 with alot of emissions missing). I bought one and drove it 45 min. Love the Jeep. Took it on a little ride and it died. The choke on my carb was stuck shut so it flooded. I didnt know enough then to understand that was what was going on. Ive since replaced the carb and put in a non computerized distributor. I have a fuel delivery issue as well that Im trying to figure out. But I suspect fuel pump as well. They can be intermittent and can leave you stranded. Wish I could help with codes but mine has no computer. Good luck
 
I have a 93 YJ, had some similar issues. I believe the cam position sensor is built into the distributor, and the crank pos sensor is down on the block, driver side, rear. I have run into several grounding issues, being an older vehicle. Good luck, they're lots of fun when they run
 
Could be a host of problems but don't forget you're dealing with a 28 year old vehicle that has an unknown maintenance history. On Jeeps this old it's always good to replace all of your battery cables both positive and negative, dont' rely on exterior appearance of the cable sheathing or what the lugs look like. I've cut apart old battery cables that looked ok externally but under the insulation it was a tube of corroded copper strands. All of the sensors operate on a 5 volt reference signal so if you have poor grounds it will show in various hard to track down electrical gremlins and it will make your ECU see bad data from the various sensors. IMO far too many sensors have been replaced

The way you described the Jeep shutting down is a classic sign of a bad Crank or cam position sensor. Crank sensors seem to fail more often than the camshaft sensors. And testing may or maynot show a bad sensor. Many times a bad sensor will work fine when cool but when the engine gets hot the sensor fails suddenly and then when it cools again the vehicle will start again and will test fine when cool as well.

Here is the testing procedure for a CPS from the 95 service manual.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TEST
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its
circuitry, refer to the DRB scan tool. Also refer to the
appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures manual.
To test the sensor only, refer to the following:
The sensor is located on the transmission bellhousing
at the left/rear side of the engine block (Figs. 2, 3
or 4).
(1) Near the rear of the intake manifold, disconnect
sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring
harness.
(2) Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C
(Fig. 5). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-10K scale
for this test. The meter reading should be open (no
resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.
For removal or installation of ignition system components,
refer to the Component Removal/Installation
section of this group.

As for fuel pressure. Just because fuel is coming out of the rail doesn't mean it's at the proper pressure. You need to get a proper fuel pressure gauge which is very cheap and something every Jeep owner should have on their shelf and test it properly. When running, you should have around 31 psi at idle with the vacuum line hooked to the Fuel pressure regulator and about 10 psi more without it hooked up. Too high and you're running rich, too low and you're starving for fuel. The pressure has to be a specific pressure because all the computer does is open the injectors for a certain amount of time based on various factors and it has no control or reading over what fuel pressure is in the line so all the fueling data in the computer is based on that 31 to 41 psi of fuel pressure.