Center Axle Disconnect Replacement Options

machoheadgames

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Really? Good to know.....I'm fixing to go into the front and replace all seals both sides.....
Do you have the front axle disconnect still or is it deleted? That seal won’t do you any good unless you’re converting or converted already. For a stock non modified YJ axle you need a different seal that goes in the CAD housing.
 

jeepjoe43

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I've got a pair of seals that came with my block off plate, oddly enough they are for the CAD axle.
Useless to me, if you're interested in them, PM me and I'll send them USPS, gratis.

If you are replacing all the seals, I might also recommend adding tube seals.
I'm doing them to keep sand and mud away from the axle seals.
I got the Rugged Ridge/OMIX/Alloy USA seals, pn 11105.
That's the pn for the red ones, they do also make them in black, about $80.
 
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T-Rex Jeepster

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Do you have the front axle disconnect still or is it deleted? That seal won’t do you any good unless you’re converting or converted already. For a stock non modified YJ axle you need a different seal that goes in the CAD housing.
Standard stock connected functional Dana-30....Have already gotten the inner-seals from O'Reilly's and have those new fangled machined aluminum one for the outsides....Just rebuilt it a few months back....If you just run around town it doesn't leak a drop,
But if you run it at highway speeds for awhile you get the dreaded viscous tire print on the shop floor...I'm thinking I have a vent problem thats building internal pressure and pushing it out past the seal...Will soon find out.....
 

machoheadgames

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Standard stock connected functional Dana-30....Have already gotten the inner-seals from O'Reilly's and have those new fangled machined aluminum one for the outsides....Just rebuilt it a few months back....If you just run around town it doesn't leak a drop,
But if you run it at highway speeds for awhile you get the dreaded viscous tire print on the shop floor...I'm thinking I have a vent problem thats building internal pressure and pushing it out past the seal...Will soon find out.....
Is only the passenger side leaking or both?
 

machoheadgames

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Just the drivers.....Figured it was the weakest, And liquids taking the path of least resistance etc...........
Wow, that's abnormal. Almost always the passenger side intermediate shaft wears where it mates to the outer passenger shaft and wobbles slightly, killing the passenger side seal. The driver's side rarely goes bad. If you are not leaking on the passenger side, I would not touch it.
 

T-Rex Jeepster

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Is only the passenger side leaking or both?
OK.....Replaced both seals this past weekend and found out that I could only use the new aluminum outer dust shield "Plug" on the drivers side because of the larger diameter axle on the passenger side. I have no problem going back in and eliminating the CAD and one piece the starboard axle....
But, I can't find anything on YT or the forums on what you have to do to get the 4X4 back on line sans CAD. Any links available?
 

machoheadgames

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OK.....Replaced both seals this past weekend and found out that I could only use the new aluminum outer dust shield "Plug" on the drivers side because of the larger diameter axle on the passenger side. I have no problem going back in and eliminating the CAD and one piece the starboard axle....
But, I can't find anything on YT or the forums on what you have to do to get the 4X4 back on line sans CAD. Any links available?
Personally not a fan of those as they'll just make it harder to tell when you have an inner leak. If you insist on them and are going to do the one piece shaft mod, it's pretty easy.

Literally all you do is what you just did to change the seals, i.e. pull the carrier. put a Napa 11800 seal in the passenger side of the diff. Coat the outside of the seal with RTV before install. Hammer the seal in, but stop when you're in about the right spot because otherwise you'll just hammer that seal all the way down the tube.

For getting rid of the CAD you can delete all the vacuum lines. You can buy a fancy flat block off plate, make your own, or literally reuse the factory CAD cover. The fork will not interfere with the new shaft as it's skinnier.

If you wish to keep the light working then you need a TJ transfer case switch (OEM chrysler ones are available for cheap), and then you run your two wires that go to the CAD motor, over to the transfer case switch instead.
 

T-Rex Jeepster

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Personally not a fan of those as they'll just make it harder to tell when you have an inner leak. If you insist on them and are going to do the one piece shaft mod, it's pretty easy.

Literally all you do is what you just did to change the seals, i.e. pull the carrier. put a Napa 11800 seal in the passenger side of the diff. Coat the outside of the seal with RTV before install. Hammer the seal in, but stop when you're in about the right spot because otherwise you'll just hammer that seal all the way down the tube.

For getting rid of the CAD you can delete all the vacuum lines. You can buy a fancy flat block off plate, make your own, or literally reuse the factory CAD cover. The fork will not interfere with the new shaft as it's skinnier.

If you wish to keep the light working then you need a TJ transfer case switch (OEM chrysler ones are available for cheap), and then you run your two wires that go to the CAD motor, over to the transfer case switch instead.
All good...My Jeepin' is light duty maybe drive off in a field or down a dirt road....Believe me, Got a Master course in installing inner seals on the D-30 with the drivers side going in smooth as butter but destroying four starboard side ones by trying to drive them in from the port side using a 36mm impact socket.
The socket matches up very well to the skirt of the seal, But we just couldn't get them to seat straight. Wound up using the all-thread/washer set up that the
Jeep solid dude posted on YT, And it worked like a dream. Have put about three hundred miles on them and everything is dry. Dude I really appreciate your knowledge and if you can explain to me the how to's and what to's to make the 4WD engage/disengage after I remove the CAD and two piece axle I'd be beholding to ya'.......
 

machoheadgames

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Dude I really appreciate your knowledge and if you can explain to me the how to's and what to's to make the 4WD engage/disengage after I remove the CAD and two piece axle I'd be beholding to ya'.......
No problem, really there's nothing to it once the axle is converted. Your transfer case already sends power to the driveshaft as soon you shift it. The axle doesn't do anything until the CAD is engaged. The CAD engagement process starts to happen over the vacuum lines once the transfer case is shifted. It is of course not instant, as the shafts have to meet perfect alignment before the vacuum finally pulls the coupler over.

Getting rid of the CAD part takes all that out of the equation and as soon as you shift the t-case, power is going to that front axle. The only thing to do after converting the axle is (optionally), extending the wiring over to the transfer case and replacing the vacuum switch with the TJ switch. If you opt for that, then as soon as you shift to 4HI or 4LO, the light on the dash will come on.
 

T-Rex Jeepster

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No problem, really there's nothing to it once the axle is converted. Your transfer case already sends power to the driveshaft as soon you shift it. The axle doesn't do anything until the CAD is engaged. The CAD engagement process starts to happen over the vacuum lines once the transfer case is shifted. It is of course not instant, as the shafts have to meet perfect alignment before the vacuum finally pulls the coupler over.

Getting rid of the CAD part takes all that out of the equation and as soon as you shift the t-case, power is going to that front axle. The only thing to do after converting the axle is (optionally), extending the wiring over to the transfer case and replacing the vacuum switch with the TJ switch. If you opt for that, then as soon as you shift to 4HI or 4LO, the light on the dash will come on.
Dude, I owe Ya'!! Any suggestions for the year axles to use for the single?
 

machoheadgames

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Dude, I owe Ya'!! Any suggestions for the year axles to use for the single?
I got mine out of a TJ. Go ahead and grab the driver side too unless you don't mind having mismatched size u-joints.

Anything from about 97XJ to 2006 TJ should work. You can also take from I believe 92-95 XJ if you don't mind smaller ujoints. At least in that case you wouldn't feel the need to upsize the driver side.

Actually I see you have a 95 so you probably have the larger u-joints already, meaning anything from a 97-06 XJ or TJ should be good and that you would only need the passenger.