A YJ with an LS on Coilovers & Spidertrax Axles

Fouledplugs

YJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
400
Location
North Carolina/Alabama
This 1995 YJ was purchased for me when I was 16 as my first vehicle. This build will focus on leafs, a stretch, a LS, and some one ton axles. This build will take a while as I have a job that requires my full attention and focus from time to time, to include traveling outside of the country for multiple months at a time.

It’s nothing special in it's current state, it has a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder that should have never been offered in a Jeep and an AX-5 manual transmission. I don’t recall how many miles it had on it when I was given the Jeep, I do believe it was under 100k, right now as it sits, it has 130k miles on it.

It came with some off brand soft top so a Bestop soft top and frame was swapped in. Once it had the new soft top on it, it really transformed the overall appearance.

I had a job and saved up and purchased a lift for it. I purchased a Rubicon Express 4” lift for it and added 33x12.50/15 SuperSwamper TSL’s.

I wheeled it a lot. Almost every week I would be out wheeling it on trails that were close to the house. My twin brother had a YJ as well with the same exact lift and identical tires. Naturally, we wheeled a lot with one another.

The 2.5 blew a headgasket and I found water in the oil, around that same time, I started my career and moved away from home. The Jeep stayed at my Dad’s house and has been sitting in it’s current state for ~10 years.

2020 rolled around and I am in a position to restore, rebuild, and modify it to what I believe will get me back on some trails more often.

Currently, I have another 1995 YJ that I drive daily and a 2006 TJ that I purchased because it was clean and has extremely low miles; 14k. So I have plenty of Jeeps in the garage and am motivated to get this YJ built and back on the trails.

I have been trying to dig up some pics from earlier years but I am struggling to find any. Here are two I could find.
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Build Plans: (continual updates)
  • Remaining on leaf springs
  • Spring over axle, front and rear
  • 12” Coilovers with remote reservoirs
  • 4 link rear
  • 3 link front w/ a steering box
  • 37-40 inch tires
  • 17 inch forged aluminum wheels to fit oversized brakes
  • 2003 Silverado SS GM “LS” LQ9
  • Maximum Transmission built 4L80E
  • Advanced Adapters Atlas II transfer case
  • Modified sport cage
  • Savvy Sliders (researching)
  • Savvy aluminum front bumper
  • Baja Designs LP9 Pro LED front fogs
  • Baja Designs S2 Pro flush B/U lights
  • Savvy LED tail lights
  • Hydro assist steering
  • Genright’s, “Growler,” alum stretch (7”) tank & alum skid (GST-4005/Discontinued)
  • Dynatrac HP ProRock 60 front axle, driverside drop, kingpin, full width, 14 inch Spidertrax disc brakes w/ Wilwood forged calipers
  • Spidertrax chromoly 3.5 inch front axle, 4130 chrimoly skid plates, full float, full width, Spidertrax steering inner and outer knuckles, 14 inch Spidertrax disc brakes w/ Wilwood calipers
  • Spidertrax chromoly 3.5 inch rear axle, 4130 chromoly skid plates, full float, full width, 14 inch Spidertrax disc brakes w/ Wilwood calipers
  • GearWorks big bearing HP 10 inch third members w/ 35 spline ARB air lockers and chromoly third member skid plates

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Near the beginning of 2020 as soon as it warmed up, i made a weekend trip down to Alabama and upgraded the 2.5 liter.
Reminder: this YJ has been sitting for about 10 years out in the elements. So it’s gonna need some major cleaning up.

The absolute best upgrade you can make to a 4 cylinder Wrangler, it to remove it.
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So as it sits right now, the 2.5, the AX-5, and the NP231 and exhaust has been removed.

Moving forward I knew I wanted an LS and I did not want a 5.3. I wanted a 6.0L.

After removing the factory YJ engine, I started checking eBay for pullouts. I happened upon a very clean Texas Silverado SS LQ9 6.0L, which is a high output LS truck engine that can be found in the the Chevy Silverado SS and the Cadillac Escalades.
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The pullout had the orginal full harness and computer to include the DBW gas pedal. The engine had a trans attached but it was a 4L65E, and I had already made the decision that I was going bigger, I was on the hunt for the bulletproof 4L80E.

I negotiated a price for the engine, harness, and computer but without the trans. I purchased it and had it shipped to my door.
Delivered:
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Soon after the engine was delivered I drove back to South Carolina and have been staying home since this Covid-19 crisis started. So working on the YJ has been put on hold. But I could still buy and pile up parts for the build.

I shopped around for a used 4L80E and figured if I bought a used trans, at a minimum I would have to have it gone through to check it’s “health.” I concluded it may be more beneficial to buy one that is built from a reputable trans builder/shop.
I settled on Maximum Transmission out of California and purchased a slightly built 4L80E.

I am still waiting on it to be built and shipped to my door. Should take about 5-6 weeks.
 
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I have always been drawn to the Ford 9 inch for a choice rearend in a Jeep for rock crawling. They can be built super strong and parts are everywhere for them, not to mention how much there is as far as aftermarket support goes. They have proven their strength in the drag racing world.

I also will be stretching the rear end as far back as possible, yet still retain the gas tank under the tub using a GenRight stretch tank.
A Ford 9 type housing gives me the most stretch possible as the measurement from axle centerline to the rear most portion of the differential housing is the shortest of any one ton, even the RockJock 60’s and 70’s.

I purchased a complete full width Ford 9 years ago from a pull it yourself and never did anything with it because of moving away. My intentions, even 10 years ago, was to build this Jeep into a one ton crawler one day.

I decided to ditch the junkyard Ford 9 that I have sitting in the garage and decided to build a much stronger rear axle setup. I wanted a ring and pinion to match a one ton front end. So I started looking at fabricated 9 inch housings that I could run a 10 inch ring gear in. A dana 60 one ton uses a 9.75 inch ring gear. The Super 60, found in 05 Ford Super duty, uses a 10 inch ring gear. The super 60 was actually designed off the highly desirable 78-79 Ford High Pinion axle.

I have no intention on ever selling this YJ, so going with an expensive, yet bulletproof rear axle to fit the LS engine was an easy choice . I highly doubt I will ever need to look for another rear axle from here on out.

I put in a custom order in with Spidertrax for a full width full floating axle. I chose their Pro Series 3.5 inch housing which uses 4130 chromoly heat treated axle tubes and their full float housing ends. The housing ends utilize a unit bearing instead of a spindle and has been proven in the Ultra4 world. Not to mention unit bearings are dead simple when it comes to maintenance, rebuilding, and repair

I had Spidertrax weld the full float ends on, weld in the outboard seal seats, weld in a fill bung and cap, and finally the lower diff housing skids. Everything showed up a few days ago fully tig welded and it looks like a piece of artwork.
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The only thing I would do different with the Spidertrax axle is change the location of the fill cap. I would have moved it up and to upper right portion of the center section.

Or had a flush type cap welded in it’s current location

I will address that issue later, I’m thinking some type of skid may need to be fabricated to keep the rocks from damaging it.
 
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I played with the idea of an LS7. But it would put a bigger dent in my budget than I would be comfortable with.

The LS7 in my C6 Z06 is absolutely epic.

My Hellcat was fast, but the C6 Z06 with a naturally aspirated (built) LS7 was faster believe it or not. That thing is absolutely batshit insane how quick it is.

I think the LS3 would be my personal choice. 426 HP stock, easy to come by, and plenty of tuning capability should you ever want to.
 
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The LS7 in my C6 Z06 is absolutely epic.

My Hellcat was fast, but the C6 Z06 with a naturally aspirated (built) LS7 was faster believe it or not. That thing is absolutely batshit insane how quick it is.

I think the LS3 would be my personal choice. 426 HP stock, easy to come by, and plenty of tuning capability should you ever want to.
As long as it’s an LS, you can’t be wrong.
 
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The Spidertrax chromoly full float 35 spline 8 lug unit bearing were delivered.

Spidertrax builds beautiful parts. I still can’t get over how well their workmanship and craftsmanship is. These suckers are expensive. I shouldn't have any issues with these unit bearings for quite some time and if I do, they are completely rebuildable.

Just like the chromoly housing, these are built by Spidertrax and made 100% in the USA.

Did a little mocking up to see them on the housing.
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These Spidertrax deliveres never cease to amaze me. Always full of awesomeness. Brakes are here.

Spidertrax Billet Alum 8 Lug Brake Hats
Spidertrax Rotors
Spidertrax Double Sheer Caliper Mounts
Wilwood Forged Dynalite 4 Piston Calipers
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looking really good im definitely going to be following this build similar to what im wanting to do with my yj
If I were not running a fuel tank under the tub, I would pull the trigger on a 14 bolt rear axle instead of a Spidertrax setup. A GM 14 bolt is incredibly cheap and they are super strong.

I could of had a built 40 spline 14 Bolt or two from Crane Axle for half the cost.:cool:

If you have money to spend the custom Currie RockJock 60’s and 70’s are really nice too since the housing is rotated for clearance. But honestly you would only need a RockJock if you were running long travel shocks and had a lot of down travel to keep the driveshaft u-joint happy.

...Or if you have a low belly pan height where a need to keep the rear driveline out of the rocks calls for a high pinion rear.
 
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