1995 Jeep Wiring Problem


maddvector

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Anyone know what this connector powers?
My YJ was not using it.

My blower motor was not working. I found 2 cut DK Green wires cut at bottom of the inside fuse box.
I traced them through my dash wiring harness and one was for the blower switch plug and the other wire runs to this connector.
I reconnected the wire for my blower switch plug and my blower motor now works.
If I reconnect the second DK Green wire that runs to this connector it blows the 25 Amp fuse in the #12 slot on the inside fuse box.

I need to know if this wire needs to be reconnected or not.
I've looked at 1995 Jeep Wiring Diagram but I haven't been able to figure it out.

Jeep Wire Connector_sm.jpg
 

machoheadgames

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Pretty certain that is the connector for factory air conditioning hookup and isn't related to the heater blower at all. what other wire colors are in there?

I believe it is connector C213.

the dark green wires should go to your heater blower "on" switch which is a simple push button switch with a terminal on each end. It is normally closed at rest but the HVAC mechanism holds it open to cut the motor off. When you choose defrost or heat, the lever lets go of the switch's button and it operates. The current goes from there to the low-medium-high switch which then shoots the current over to the blower motor resistor to resist it properly before the motor sees the power. If you choose high, then the current basically bypasses the resistor and the motor runs at full speed.

So when you said "
I reconnected the wire for my blower switch plug and my blower motor now works.
If I reconnect the second DK Green wire that runs to this connector it blows the 25 Amp fuse in the #12 slot on the inside fuse box.", I got lost and was no longer sure what you mean. Dark green wires run to the connector in the picture? The plug in your picture should be AC only, not heater, so I don't think you should be touching that plug at all.

Edit: scratch what I said about dark green wires in the paragraph above^, i see them in the pinout for that C213 connector in the PDF I attached. I'm not sure what they do but they are definitely not for the heater because they are for AC only. I'll see if I can find what those two are for. One should be 14Ga and one 18, no?
 

Attachments

  • Heater Wiring Diagram.pdf
    24.5 KB · Views: 6
  • C213 Connector.pdf
    34.1 KB · Views: 10

machoheadgames

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Okay, so some updates. C1 dark green is an ignition power feed. That is all it is. One runs to the AC plug in your picture (C213), the other runs to the heater motor switch I mentioned previously.

So the only thing I'm curious about is you blowing the fuse. You talk about "reconnecting" the wire. What are you reconnecting it to? As long as you got the heater portion working, then that unused plug can just dangle and be tied up in the dash because it won't ever be used if it isn't already being used.
 
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maddvector

maddvector

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The DK Green Wire in the top picture runs to the green wire on the left. If I re-connect these wires it immediately blows the fuse...
The wires that were cut come out of the fuse box under the dash.
The Green wire with the red connector runs to my blower motor switch plug.

Dk Green Cut Wires.jpg
 
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machoheadgames

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The wire that was cut that comes out of the fuse box under the dash.

View attachment 117760
Yeah I get that, that's where the ignition power comes from. It branches from the fuse box into two lines, one to heater and one to AC (the plug in your pic).

So what/where exactly are you reconnecting when it pops the fuse? What is on the other end of the green wire when you reconnect it? Is the other end of the wire touching ground? If so that would be shorting your ignition power to ground which would pop the fuse.
 
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maddvector

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I guess I will trace the other wires in the AC Plug and see if any of them are shorted out.
The Dk Green wire has a wire-in and a wire-out on the plug. I will start there.

I appreciate the help!
 

machoheadgames

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I guess I will trace the other wires in the AC Plug and see if any of them are shorted out.
The Dk Green wire has a wire-in and a wire-out on the plug. I will start there.

I appreciate the help!
Yeah the PDF pinout for C213 shows two dark green wires, one 14 gauge and one 18. I don't personally see that on my own C213 plug (I checked mine an hour ago but maybe I missed it, it's hard to see up there where I tied it up)

I'd definitely trace all of the dark green and find out where it's shorting out.

Are you pulling the dark green pin out of the plug, as in depinning the connector?
 

machoheadgames

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I'm just not understanding what you're talking about reconnecting. I'm not understanding what exactly is happening when you're popping the fuse.
 
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maddvector

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The Dk Green wire that runs to C213 is cut at the bottom of the fuse box. If I reconnect the cut wire it blows the 25 Amp fuse immediately.
I have pulled the 14 gauge wire that runs from the fuse box to C213 and it doesn't have a short in it. So the short is probable located in the Dk Green 18 gauge wire that also connects to C213. This wire from what I can tell so far doesn't run back to the fuse box.
 
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maddvector

maddvector

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The Dk Green 14 gauge wire that runs to C213 is cut at the bottom of the fuse box. If I reconnect the cut wire it blows the 25 Amp fuse immediately.
I have pulled the 14 gauge wire that runs from the fuse box to C213 and it doesn't have a short in it. So the short is probable located in the Dk Green 18 gauge wire that also connects to C213. This wire from what I can tell so far doesn't run back to the fuse box.

C213.jpg
 

machoheadgames

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Okay that clears up a lot. Sounds like the 18 gauge dark green needs to be traced to wherever it goes. I'm sure that whatever it connects to, is the reason the 14 gauge is popping the fuse when you connect it to the fuse box. Your C213 matches the FSM. Mine doesn't have the second 18 gauge wire on it, so I can't help there.

I'd start trying to trace the second green wire (18 gauge) as far as you can and definitely check for exposed wire that may cause a short too.

IMG_4167.jpeg
 
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maddvector

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Ok...The wire has been traced and the Dk Green 18 gauge wire loops around to the Ground wire.
Has anyone else seen this set up before... As far as I understand a hot wire to a ground wire is a direct short.
Based on Machoheadgames C213 Connector should I just cut the Dr. Green to BK 18 gauge wire out.
The BK ground wire pin is also a double pin wire.

Loop C213 Wire.jpg
 

machoheadgames

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Ok...The wire has been traced and the Dk Green 18 gauge wire loops around to the Ground wire.
Has anyone else seen this set up before... As far as I understand a hot wire to a ground wire is a direct short.
Based on Machoheadgames C213 Connector should I just cut the Dr. Green to BK 18 gauge wire out.
The BK ground wire pin is also a double pin wire.

View attachment 117763
That definitely does not seem correct. I'll try to trace the C213 diagram and figure out where the 18 gauge green should go, but to ground definitely isn't right. That heat shrink on the green wire also looks wrong. The black with yellow silicone on the ground wire is an official factory splice. Looks like somebody who didn't know what they were doing spliced that green into the ground. Then that was popping fuses, so they snipped it at the fuse box. Let me see if I can find where the green should go instead.
 

machoheadgames

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Looking at this diagram, looks like it actually does go to ground, but there is supposed to be a diode before it reaches ground so that it can't get any feedback from ground to short out the fuse. That's really bizarre, no idea why they wanted to ground that wire, but there it is. I'd install a diode and see what happens.
 

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  • AC Wiring Diagram.pdf
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machoheadgames

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The diode is a 1N5404 and is easy to find.
I will replace it.
I still wonder what the purpose of power to ground with a diode is. I'm curious now.

I'm also curious why on my Jeep, I don't have the 18 gauge wire. I just have the 14 gauge going from fuse box to C213, and the 14 gauge from fuse box to heater. Nothing from C213 to diode, unless it's all hidden in the loom further down. Maybe my green goes from C214 to a splice to split into two rather than beingdouble crimped like yours. The weird thing there though is the FSM shows it as a double crimp just like yours. Who knows.
 
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maddvector

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I think you are better off without it.
It is a dead short when the diode fails.
I wonder how many people have pulled their hair out trying to chase down this short...

I cut the diode out and reconnected the Dk Green wire at the fuse box and now I don't have the fuse burning out.
It is definitely the diode.