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Anything other than paint is a roll of the dice. As mentioned above, it makes corrosion treatment harder. If the coating fails for some reason or gets cracks now water and dirt can get in behind the coating and rots out the floors even faster than if they weren't treated. In an open-top...

Since they're new to you they need a through inspection for worn parts and things need to be fixed before you really start going full tilt. I agree with above. I would leave them alone for a while and "get to know them" before jumping off any mod rabbit holes. I used to be all into the mods...

I usually do regular oil analysis on my vehicles. This is the first one I've done on this YJ after doing a short interval change, I got this with over 200k miles on it, and it had sat for years prior to this and it had the rattle as well. Sounds like a diesel at idle, smooth under load, no oil...

We need some fuel pressure numbers. Could also still be an ignition problem with the ignition coil. It's making enough energy at idle but at higher engine speeds isn't putting out enough oomph to jump that gap properly. But I really want to see some fuel pressure numbers.

I've seen the original in tank pumps push 80-90 psi when the return line gets kinked. Maybe your old pump is worn out? Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator upline?

The only lift kit that's going to offer a small lift and as good or better than OEM ride quality will probably be Old Man Emu. I wish they still made stock height springs for XJs and YJs. I do run their Shocks on the XJ and soon enough on the YJ as they will work on stock height vehicles.

My fix was to rip all that uselessness out and throw it in the garbage can. Can't hear crap from a speaker in an open top Jeep at speed anyway. At least not without going even further over hearing unsafe sound levels than being in an open top Jeep. My headphones or ear muffs sound better than...

There's a rubber "snubber" at the bottom of the pump assembly that rams into the bottom of the tank when the assembly is bolted down. That's normal when you're putting it back together. No idea what's going on with your sending unit.

Do some googling and forum searching. This is a question that's been asked 5 billion times. IMO it's not worth the time/effort. The 4.2 was a great engine, but so is the 2.5. Compare the power/torque numbers before going down a rabbit hole.

Typically, the flatter the leaf pack, the better it rides. Compare CJ leaf springs to what YJ springs look like. The YJs generally ride better unless something is wrong, with them.

Sounds like the OP is pretty new to all this. @condorf here is the procedure to pull any DTCs from the computer. Not all codes set off the check engine light so you might have some stored in there that aren't setting it off. Let us know what you find out.

They're cheap and easy to get. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9R5HF4D/?tag=yjforum-20 If you don't want to buy one for your self, even though I think it's a diagnostic tool every YJ,XJ or TJ owner should have on their shelf, you can rent one from any local parts store.

We need to see some fuel pressures. Also go in and really inspect and clean your grounds. Many a running problem can be traced back to poor/dirty grounds and old corroded battery/ground cables.

95 should have a poly tank. But could be a bunch of crap from bad fuel in there but hopefully he cleaned it up a bit before putting everything back together again. I want to see his fuel pressure numbers at idle. OP did you do the 20 gallon mod while you had the tank out?

It might also be worth going through and doing a thorough cleaning on your throttle body. I'm not sure what controls idle on the 2.5 TBI engines but if it gets gunked up like the MPI engines idle control circuit does you could be chasing your tail over a non existent electrical problem.

Yes, turning on your headlights will add increased load to the charging system/alternator, which is being turned by your engine via a belt. This increased load is increased work for the engine. If you have power steering on a 2.5L Jeep, there's even a little pressure sensor that tells your...

The ball joint is essentially a spherical joint, just like a tie rod end. If there is up and down play there is left and right play even if you aren't able to perceive it. The forces involved with driving down a road at speed in a 4,000 lb piece of equipment is enough to get an oscillation...

Jack up the front end. Put a lever under the tire and pry up. If you see ANY up and down movement in the ball joints, they are bad. This will show a worn ball joint long before the "grab at 12 and 6" method. If the grab at 12 and 6 method shows play, you're way past worn out into dangerously...

Loud and incredibly heavy. A 4bt is in the area of 750-800 lbs. A 2.5 isn't even 350 lbs. Don't do it. Or sell it and buy one with a 4.0 in it already. I wouldn't say the benefits are "tremendous". To me the 2.5 YJ and TJ call back to the era of the simple basic Jeep. Small lightweight...

Yes, turning on your headlights will add increased load to the charging system/alternator, which is being turned by your engine via a belt. This increased load is increased work for the engine. If you have power steering on a 2.5L Jeep, there's even a little pressure sensor that tells your...