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On the broken studs for screwing on the shift knobs. I forget the thread pitch of the knobs but it's an easily obtainable bolt. I cut the head off of a bolt and welded it to the top of the cane where the old stud had been broken off by a previous owner. Cleaned it up with a flap wheel and...

My parts got delayed a day and arrived late, so I didn't get around to wrapping up the transmission swap until today. Of course, my rear springs came in after I closed up the shop for the day. So that will be next week project. But it's in, it drives and 5th gear works with no issues...

Yeah the boots are no fun, but they make a huge difference in drivetrain heat getting into the cab.

There's a mechanical metal rod that runs down the column to depress the high beam switch. It's possible it's jumped out of the little cup that holds it in place and now won't depress it enough to switch.

If the hose is unplugged at the t-case you won't feel any vacuum at the swtich. The 4 hole plug is where your vacuum comes from and the switch allows vacuum to actuate the vacuum motor on the front axle. You should feel vacuum on one of the 4 hole plug ports when running. The t-case and the...

I mean the Jeep side of the connection, the plug, not the switch on the t-case

If you pull the connector at the t-case you should still feel vacuum at the 4 port plug. You're going to need to chase the vacuum lines and check them.

Pulled the AX5 with a bad 5th gear for swapping with an AX5 out of a 01 TJ. Parts should be here tomorrow.

Sometimes these types of switches can wear a little and make it not work in normal operation but you're able to push it far enough to make it work by hand. Might be worth inspecting the switch a little closer. Specifically, the little ball on the end that forms the plunger. I've dealt with a...

Ouch. If you have an Atwoods or Tractor Supply they sell by the lb. Grade 8 being the most expensive, and I can buy a pound of grade 8 hardware for less than that.

Pop down to Harbor Freight and grab a 7 dollar multimeter and keep it in the glove box.

I don't see a year mentioned, but as mentioned above you have no control over the ignition timing in a 4.0 no matter how much you move the distributor around. The ignition timing is fully controlled by the computer. Usually somewhere between 10 and 14 degrees BTDC at idle. This is a common...

As mentioned above. Ash Tray. Only pulls out part way. There's a tab on top where you would tyipcally "snub" out the cigarette that you can push down and fully remove the ash tray. I've got mine around here somewhere I need to put back in for storage or spare change. When I got my Jeep it...

Replaced all the radiator and heater lines. All still marked with "DOM 05/95". I can't believe these things lasted almost 30 years without failing and needing to be replaced.

Yes, looking at the wiring diagram, this circuit uses a switched ground instead of switched power. Like a horn. So I've verified the following. Bulb-not blown confirmed working by hooking it to a 12v source and it lit up. Switch at the CAD-functional, verified using continuity setting on...

It's impressive they had enough spare stuff around at the end of the production run to crank out 53,000 more YJs in that last stint.

Troubleshot the 4wd indicator. Everything I can test checks out. Bulb is good, vacuum switch is good, power at the connector and ground is good, trying to think of how I would test that circuit in the gauge panel itself, as it has that paper thin printed circuit thing on the back of the panel1...

Still not entirely sure. I think it's probably ignition switch/wiring related, based on my troubleshooting and going by the wiring diagrams, the heat/blower wiring is pretty simple overall. I'm still undoing a lot of wiring SNAFUs from the previous owners, some of which involved the column...

Got the blower working again.

It's always worked well for me on cleaning pretty much anything. Just make sure you get the non chlorinated type.