'95 Sahara, 1st YJ

The shims look like 10 degrees to me, and the pinion angle seems much higher than needed, especially when I remove the transfer case drop.

Should the pinion be pointing straight at the T-case, or close to horizontal?

IMG_0124.JPG

IMG_0125.JPG




Enormous shims?
IMG_0116.JPG
IMG_0117.JPG
 
The shims look like 10 degrees to me, and the pinion angle seems much higher than needed, especially when I remove the transfer case drop.

Should the pinion be pointing straight at the T-case, or close to horizontal?

View attachment 120557
View attachment 120558



Enormous shims?
View attachment 120559View attachment 120560
Yes - all stock driveshaft and tcase.

And WOW! Dude did not know what he was doing when it comes to driveshaft angles. He stacked what looks to be 10-12° shims on top of the 2° OME shims. Take those bigger shims out for sure. You can do an SYE with probably 6° shims or you can leave the OME shims and do the OME tcase drop.
 
Yes, you have the stock slip yoke. And it doesn’t appear to me to have a transfer case drop.
 
Yes, you have the stock slip yoke. And it doesn’t appear to me to have a transfer case drop.
It does, in this pic you can see there's a gap between the skid and the frame, although it's hard to see the spacer. Looking closely, it appears to not even have a spacer on that rearmost bolt.


1668174086091.png
 
Still breaking things down and taking inventory. I ordered factory-style front and rear bumpers and took off the steel monstrosities it came with. They were very popular on OfferUp because I apparently set the price way low. Also the receiver had been welded to the rear crossmember so getting that off was fun.

OCGG9930[1].JPEG
IMG_0137[1].JPG


IMG_E0135[1].JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: machoheadgames
It has no track bar front or rear. Having no experience with leaf springs, this seems odd and dangerous, but it handles tolerably well so maybe it's ok after all. The bracket for the track bar on the rear axle is all mangled anyway.

The pitman arm looks stock to me, and the steering geometry looks ok to my inexperienced eye; when I remove the lift shackles everything will settle down closer to stock.

The anti-sway bar links have torn boots; is the stock length link ok for a 2.5" lift?


IMG_0122.JPG
 
It has no track bar front or rear. Having no experience with leaf springs, this seems odd and dangerous, but it handles tolerably well so maybe it's ok after all. The bracket for the track bar on the rear axle is all mangled anyway.

The pitman arm looks stock to me, and the steering geometry looks ok to my inexperienced eye; when I remove the lift shackles everything will settle down closer to stock.

The anti-sway bar links have torn boots; is the stock length link ok for a 2.5" lift?


View attachment 120565
The leaf springs do a mediocre job of locating the axle, so many people ditch the track bars. By mediocre I mean the axle isn’t going anywhere, although keep in mind leaf springs are mounted to flexible bushings so at least on the front axle due to steering, there will be a small amount of slop. It’s tolerable to most but I added a front track bar back after years of not having one. The downside to a track bar on leaf springs is they are not forgiving when the track bar tries to swing the axle in an arc on suspension movement while the leaf springs only really want to go up and down. So you can add one back at your choosing. Don’t add one back to the rear. There is no purpose for it and no reason to have it.

The pitman arm is definitely stock looking at the height of that drag link. I don’t like that drag link angle. This is what makes the YJ steering suck. The drag Link is mounted to the tie rod. The drag link angle due to lift means when you go to steer, the tie rod will roll (pivoting on the balls of its two tie rod ends) until it reaches the limit of rolling. Then, the wheels will start to turn. When steering in the opposite direction, you’ll have to work through the same amount of slack until you reach the tie rod roll in the other direction. That creates a loose steering feel and is much exacerbated by a suspension lift. Highly recommend a drop pitman arm - it will still work fine when you ditch the shackles. A drop pitman will ONLY improve the steering, this is not like a TJ. If you do decide to add a front track bar back, and you do a pitman arm, then you’d want to get a track bar bracket as well so you can match the angle with the dropped pitman.

Very common for the sway bar link bushings to be dry rotted. My stock ones were dry rotted 10 years ago and probably way before that. I have always used stock length links, they’re decent. I’m using Skyjacker quick disconnects now I believe. Really what I’d like to do is get pics of a bone stock YJ and where it’s sway bar sits height wise and try to get links that put mine at the same angle. It’s been a while since I’ve seen a stock height YJ and it’s sway bar setup, so I forget what it looked like but it seems the skyjacker links I got have my sway bar sitting lower than it did from factory. Which I think is fine, but it’s always good to mimic stock design.

Many run without the sway bar also but I really don’t like the feel of that. Especially on OME springs, mine was scary to try. Not sure about others.
 
Okay, for science I took a pic of mine and found the part number. Skyjacker SBE424, for 2.5” lift.

I found a video on YouTube and his stock sway bar links on stock suspension did have the sway bar about flat. Mine is about the same, so it appears I am good after all. As such, I’d recommend the Skyjacker ones.

38C50FCA-983F-4032-9938-C1F029B3C298.jpeg

Also, this pictures gives a good idea of a drop pitman arm on 2.5” lift. Pictured above is about the closest you can get the steering to handling like stock with a 2.5” lift. I’d definitely suggest the pitman arm…it’s not that anyone ‘needs’ it, it’s that it’s better to have it.
 
The leaf springs do a mediocre job of locating the axle, so many people ditch the track bars. By mediocre I mean the axle isn’t going anywhere, although keep in mind leaf springs are mounted to flexible bushings so at least on the front axle due to steering, there will be a small amount of slop. It’s tolerable to most but I added a front track bar back after years of not having one. The downside to a track bar on leaf springs is they are not forgiving when the track bar tries to swing the axle in an arc on suspension movement while the leaf springs only really want to go up and down. So you can add one back at your choosing. Don’t add one back to the rear. There is no purpose for it and no reason to have it.

The pitman arm is definitely stock looking at the height of that drag link. I don’t like that drag link angle. This is what makes the YJ steering suck. The drag Link is mounted to the tie rod. The drag link angle due to lift means when you go to steer, the tie rod will roll (pivoting on the balls of its two tie rod ends) until it reaches the limit of rolling. Then, the wheels will start to turn. When steering in the opposite direction, you’ll have to work through the same amount of slack until you reach the tie rod roll in the other direction. That creates a loose steering feel and is much exacerbated by a suspension lift. Highly recommend a drop pitman arm - it will still work fine when you ditch the shackles. A drop pitman will ONLY improve the steering, this is not like a TJ. If you do decide to add a front track bar back, and you do a pitman arm, then you’d want to get a track bar bracket as well so you can match the angle with the dropped pitman.

Very common for the sway bar link bushings to be dry rotted. My stock ones were dry rotted 10 years ago and probably way before that. I have always used stock length links, they’re decent. I’m using Skyjacker quick disconnects now I believe. Really what I’d like to do is get pics of a bone stock YJ and where it’s sway bar sits height wise and try to get links that put mine at the same angle. It’s been a while since I’ve seen a stock height YJ and it’s sway bar setup, so I forget what it looked like but it seems the skyjacker links I got have my sway bar sitting lower than it did from factory. Which I think is fine, but it’s always good to mimic stock design.

Many run without the sway bar also but I really don’t like the feel of that. Especially on OME springs, mine was scary to try. Not sure about others.
I’m definitely keeping the sway bar. If I ever add a track bar does front or rear make more of a stability improvement?
 
I’m definitely keeping the sway bar. If I ever add a track bar does front or rear make more of a stability improvement?
Neither of them make a stability improvement, the front will help with steering feel and getting rid of some vagueness. The rear track bar doesn’t really do anything except bind the suspension - I definitely don’t recommend adding a rear. But there is merit to the front depending on each driver’s opinion. I like having it. With a lift though you need a track bar bracket. And to match that you need a drop pitman arm.
 
Ok great advice! I’ll see how everything feels with the smaller tires and standard shackles and go from there.

I’m hoping to get a factory rear seat soon and get rid of the non-folding aftermarket seat, which isn’t even anchored completely.

I also need carpet for the interior. I’m leaning towards the Bedrug, but might look for actual carpet in a Spice color.
 
Ok great advice! I’ll see how everything feels with the smaller tires and standard shackles and go from there.

I’m hoping to get a factory rear seat soon and get rid of the non-folding aftermarket seat, which isn’t even anchored completely.

I also need carpet for the interior. I’m leaning towards the Bedrug, but might look for actual carpet in a Spice color.
I bought a kit from Stock Interiors. Haven’t installed it yet though, as I’m not to that point in reassembly. It will be some work to install. I skipped on BedRug because the YJ kit got much worse reviews than the TJ kit. It was a long time ago that I looked at it but what I found for YJs was far less promising than the kits for TJs that everybody loves so much. May want to look into that before pulling a trigger.
 
I bought a kit from Stock Interiors. Haven’t installed it yet though, as I’m not to that point in reassembly. It will be some work to install. I skipped on BedRug because the YJ kit got much worse reviews than the TJ kit. It was a long time ago that I looked at it but what I found for YJs was far less promising than the kits for TJs that everybody loves so much. May want to look into that before pulling a trigger.
Thanks for the tip; I ordered carpet samples from Stock Interiors and they sent it right away. Since this is a city/road machine I don't see a lot of mudding in the future, and carpet makes more sense. Cheaper, plus I get a choice of colors that Bedrug doesn't offer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: machoheadgames
I got 30x9.5's installed last week, and now I'm waiting on the stock-type shackles to arrive. I notice better acceleration and less tire noise already. I can't wait to ditch the 1" transfer case drop since it is interfering with 2nd gear, 4th gear, and reverse.

I'm hoping the tires look and function well with the 2.5" lift from the springs so I can replace as little hardware as possible.

The Skyjacker shocks say they're for a 3.5-4" lift. I suppose I need to change them?
 
I think you’ll be good on 2.5” and 30’s. Does it look bad with all the lift now and the 30s you just installed?

I’d change the shocks. The OME shocks are pretty short and perfect for their lift height. Many shocks are too long. Often it doesn’t really matter because the leaf springs don’t flex a lot, so you’re unlikely to bottom out anyways. The benefit to changing the shocks is you’ll like the OMEs better anyways.
 
I got the lifted shackles replaced with the stock size, and I think the lift and tires look good; pretty much the look I'm wanting.

Removing the T-case drop allowed the gearshift to go into 2nd/4th/reverse without any binding, which is great. Unfortunately my driveshaft is steep and I have some vibes, mainly noticeable coming off the throttle at <30 mph.

I'm going to go with the OME transfer case drop which hopefully will cure the vibes without binding the gear selector.

I found a bit more rust than I was expecting in the frame inside the nuts; the bolts still torque well, but we'll see about that later.

IMG_0179.JPG
 
Didn’t you have some giganto shims on the springs, on top of the OME shims? If that was you, those need to go pronto.

Proportions look good.
 
Getting lower shackles meant my drag link was too long, so I got that adjusted. It seems to have a pretty flat angle now even with the stock pitman arm.
 
Didn’t you have some giganto shims on the springs, on top of the OME shims? If that was you, those need to go pronto.

Proportions look good.
Yeah those large shims came out, so the pinion is much flatter now. Angle finder says about 9 degree slope, if I'm using it right.