Need donor models and years to replace the dreaded Dana 30 split axle

T-Rex Jeepster

The Unoffendable
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Well my '95 Dana 30 on my YJ has started gushing again on the passenger/split side and I want to go to a solid axle and do away with the vacuum actuator...
Can you point me in the right direction for donor vehicle and years for the solid replacement? I know I also have to get a replacement cover for the vacuum box and a point to that would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks aplenty!!
 
97+ TJ or XJ for best results.

Napa 11800 seal, installed into the right side of the pumpkin.

I used the G2 91-5789 plate, which was nice and black powder-coated. However, you don't really need a block-off plate. You can just disassemble the fork off of the CAD cover and bolt the stock cover back on with no fork on it.
 
97+ TJ or XJ for best results.

Napa 11800 seal, installed into the right side of the pumpkin.

I used the G2 91-5789 plate, which was nice and black powder-coated. However, you don't really need a block-off plate. You can just disassemble the fork off of the CAD cover and bolt the stock cover back on with no fork on it.
Dude.....I owe ya'.....
 
One more thing....Will the yoke off the axle fit the yoke off the hub? Asking because the site I'm seeing has one with the spindle yoke and one without.......
 
One more thing....Will the yoke off the axle fit the yoke off the hub? Asking because the site I'm seeing has one with the spindle yoke and one without.......
You'll want the full axle shafts, 97+ have larger better u-joints (5-760x from Spicer). As such, you'll need the full shaft, both the main long one and the stub that goes into the unit bearing.

In order for your new one to match the driver side, you're best off getting both passenger and driver shafts, and the corresponding stubs. You can probably order all of this off eBay for not too terrible of a price. I found mine in a junkyard for about $105 if I remember right.

If you want your 4x light to work, you'll want to take the wiring from the CAD motor and extend it to the transfer case, install a TJ transfer case switch (J8134473) in place of the vacuum switch, and a CON138 or SKS712 connector pigtail to plug it in.
 
97+ TJ or XJ for best results.

Napa 11800 seal, installed into the right side of the pumpkin.

I used the G2 91-5789 plate, which was nice and black powder-coated. However, you don't really need a block-off plate. You can just disassemble the fork off of the CAD cover and bolt the stock cover back on with no fork on it.

You'll want the full axle shafts, 97+ have larger better u-joints (5-760x from Spicer). As such, you'll need the full shaft, both the main long one and the stub that goes into the unit bearing.

In order for your new one to match the driver side, you're best off getting both passenger and driver shafts, and the corresponding stubs. You can probably order all of this off eBay for not too terrible of a price. I found mine in a junkyard for about $105 if I remember right.

If you want your 4x light to work, you'll want to take the wiring from the CAD motor and extend it to the transfer case, install a TJ transfer case switch (J8134473) in place of the vacuum switch, and a CON138 or SKS712 connector pigtail to plug it in.

Cool....Do you have a part # for a good quality seals for the 'Punkin? Really couldn't find anything but what AZ had because seating that offset one was such a pain I burned through four of them trying to drive/impact it in before I smartened up and "Pulled" It from the outside in.....
 
Cool....Do you have a part # for a good quality seals for the 'Punkin? Really couldn't find anything but what AZ had because seating that offset one was such a pain I burned through four of them trying to drive/impact it in before I smartened up and "Pulled" It from the outside in.....
The Napa 11800 I posted earlier. You don't need a seal at the CAD once you convert.
 
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You'll want the full axle shafts, 97+ have larger better u-joints (5-760x from Spicer). As such, you'll need the full shaft, both the main long one and the stub that goes into the unit bearing.

In order for your new one to match the driver side, you're best off getting both passenger and driver shafts, and the corresponding stubs. You can probably order all of this off eBay for not too terrible of a price. I found mine in a junkyard for about $105 if I remember right.

If you want your 4x light to work, you'll want to take the wiring from the CAD motor and extend it to the transfer case, install a TJ transfer case switch (J8134473) in place of the vacuum switch, and a CON138 or SKS712 connector pigtail to plug it in.

Do you approve? And again, Thanks for the help!!


 
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Do you approve? And again, Thanks for the help!!


No worries. Yes, looks good. Kind of expensive but new at least.
 
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