My brakes suck

Stoopid Jeep

YJ Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 25, 2021
Messages
319
Location
North Idaho
Everything is new(ish) and functions properly, the brakes just suck.
I'm running 31" tires right now and am going to move to 33' when I wear these out. It won't go bigger than 33's, not with the 4 banger.
The brakes aren't dangerous or anything, they just kinda suck. I have Raybestos semi-metallic pads and shoes, new; rotors, drums, lines, etc.
I'm not really looking to do a big brake upgrade or rear disc swap at this time.
Maybe some ceramic pads?
I get it, It's not a Corvette, but little better stopping power would be nice.
suggestions?
 
Can you check the brake booster? I can probably lock up the wheels on my 92 YJ with 31's.
There's nothing wrong with them, they're just pretty anemic. I'm sure I could lock them up if stomped on the pedal, I'm just accustomed to good brakes. These ain't good, they're barely adequate.
 
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If you don’t like the metallics, the ceramics will likely be worse. Ceramics give a spongy feel, in general.

You probably have divots in the knuckle ears that need to be welded back in and ground smooth. The knuckle material is too soft and was a poor choice for pads sliding on them.

Then, you need good pads. Good pads on messed up knuckles will do no good because that will destroy the pads and they will never work right with divots. So fix the divots and then I’d say call Blaine at BMB for his pads. Expensive, yeah, they work, also yeah, very well.

I wouldn’t bother with the booster, master or anything else until you’ve tried that. If you can’t weld the divots I bet Blaine will be willing to ship you a set of already fixed knuckles and then you can ship yours back to him to replenish his stock. He is very helpful in ways like that.
 
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If you don’t like the metallics, the ceramics will likely be worse. Ceramics give a spongy feel, in general.

You probably have divots in the knuckle ears that need to be welded back in and ground smooth. The knuckle material is too soft and was a poor choice for pads sliding on them.

Then, you need good pads. Good pads on messed up knuckles will do no good because that will destroy the pads and they will never work right with divots. So fix the divots and then I’d say call Blaine at BMB for his pads. Expensive, yeah, they work, also yeah, very well.

I wouldn’t bother with the booster, master or anything else until you’ve tried that. If you can’t weld the divots I bet Blaine will be willing to ship you a set of already fixed knuckles and then you can ship yours back to him to replenish his stock. He is very helpful in ways like that.
I didn't even know "divots in the knuckle ears" was a thing. If they're devoted, I'm sure I can weld them back up.
I will check that out, thank you!

BMB brake pads, 135 bucks ...ouch.
They do have excellent reviews.
 
I didn't even know "divots in the knuckle ears" was a thing. If they're devoted, I'm sure I can weld them back up.
I will check that out, thank you!

BMB brake pads, 135 bucks ...ouch.
They do have excellent reviews.
Yeah, it's a poor design from Jeep. The good thing is that once they are welded, the weld material is typically stronger than the knuckle so they should pretty much live forever from that point forward.

And yup, the BMBs are pricey but I have seen very few be unhappy with them, and they have worked well for me on multiple Jeep and Ford applications. They also like to be used, and 33's should exercise a stock size set of BMBs pretty well, keeping them warm like they like to be.
 
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Not as bad as some of the pics I've seen, but it definitely had divots.
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Also had some badly worn pads and overheated rotors
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I welded and ground the ears as smooth as I could, and assembled the brakes using the Black Magic pads and some Dutalast-Gold rotors with "higher carbon content" I added a little caliper grease to the back of each pad.
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During the first part of the break in cycle, these things made a HORRIBLY LOUD squealing sound , I actually pulled over to verify that something wasn't wrong. Everything was tight and right.
When I started moving again the squealing stopped, but came back a couple minutes later. It was significantly quieter the second time , but still very loud.
The squealing came back a few times but seemed to get a little quieter each time.
When it started squealing, I could stop it by simply applying light pressure to the brake pedal for about one second, it stopped immediately, and stayed quiet for a couple minutes (driving without using the brakes) before it happened again.

Hopefully the squealing is just part of the break in? It seems to be getting progressively quieter and less frequent.
I'm half way through the break-in procedure and letting everything cool down overnight. I'll finish the break in procedure tomorrow, hopefully the brakes will continue to quiet down. ...Perfectly silent would be good.
 
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Hm can’t say about the squealing. I have never had that from BMBs. You do have them right side up, right? As in the fork on the pad is down….

Did you clean off the rotors before installing? I usually wash them in the bathtub with warm soapy water.
 
Yeah whoever you Mimicked from how they were on there put them wrong. Pretty common mistake but it can make a difference. Hopefully it helps in your case.
 
The squealing was still there (driver side btw)
I think I figured it out this time.
The dust shield was rubbing, probably from crawling over logs and other stoopid stuff I do.
20220704_124824.jpg

I bent it back and secured it with a stainless tie wrap, that should hold it in place until I smash it again
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