My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build

Lol for sure it is nice to have progress. Surely hope it’s not fake progress and that I find the leak again after running it more 🤣 we’ll see. I’m just glad it starts up after all this time, good oil pressure with the new pump, and it sounds just like it always did. Revved it up and it sounded exactly as I remember from all the years of driving it.

Crazy how loud that 4.0 can be when reviving it in the garage.
LOL! My 2.5 isn't that quiet either when revving, even with a BFN exhaust.
But I can tell you It's a hell of a lot quieter than a 2.0 Ford @ 11:1 compression with a Cherry Bomb!
That motor absolutely Barked!
 
I suppose this thread could use an update. Still not driving it, been lazy lately. Well not really, but kind of. The last thing I wrote on here was about fixing the oil leak, which I still believe is fixed. I have run the engine a few random times and it seems to be good. We will see when I drive it still. Lately I have dug into a lot more work.

To operate my fog lights, daytime running light, backup lights, and driving lights, I decided to install a switch panel to my trim panel. that part was easy, once I received the tuffy panel which took 10 months!! The switches themselves were easy enough to install, I used 4 different color Grote switches. They install into 1/2" round holes. I had to use various ohm rating resistors to get the indicators to all be relatively the same brightness. Also added a USB port to the dash which will run to the back of my stereo mounted console.

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What has got me so busy personally is the work to install them. Ordinarily installing switches is easy but it's a pain with the detailed way I insist on doing it. I'm basically making it to where each switch sends power through a relay, but the sources can also trigger the relays. For example, reverse triggers the backup lamp relay, but the switch can manually turn on the backup lamps also. The benefit is I get dual functionality on all 4 switches. The downside is that it is a lot of wires and it is hard to make this clean. Also, to tie into reverse, high beam, etc, I needed to pull the dash apart to make it happen.

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On the bright side, it gave me a chance to pull the steering wheel and understand how the horn works, so that I can finally swap to the leather wheel when I finish this project, plus I was able to see what it looked like early. I love the way it looks!

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The plan currently:

  1. Finish wiring the 4 switches and their relays
  2. Put dash all back together
  3. Finish dash with new steering wheel going on
  4. Tidy up stereo console install
  5. Finish kilmat and carpet installation
  6. Swap booster and master cylinder, and bleed brakes
  7. Change tie rod and drag link and go get an alignment
  8. Drive it
  9. Buy stereo equipment (two amps, component front speakers, 6x9 rear speakers, speaker pods for all, tuffy enclosure for amps and sub)
  10. LED Headlights
  11. Possibly Double D Fab Dash & Speedhut Black/Amber Gauges
 
Track Bar

After 8 years I added a track bar back to the front of my YJ. I never liked the added vagueness to the steering when I removed it originally so long ago. The reason I removed it back then was mainly as an experiment, but it was also detrimental with my Rough Country 2.5" lift due to the track bar being too short at that point which pulled my axle hard to the left and wore out my leaf spring bushings.

I decided with this big overhaul of my Jeep, I wanted to try a track bar again. I bought a track bar, a Rubicon Express extension bracket, a bolt kit, and the spacer bracket that allows the track bar to bolt to the frame bracket and pivot properly while staying tight. The install was super easy, it went right on and is now parallel with my drag link which is dropped with a drop pitman arm. Besides maybe some stiffer suspension feeling, I think the track bar will be a welcome addition. Better handling overall, more responsive. Combined with new drag link and tie rod components, I think it will handle pretty damn good. I think the OME suspension will still ride well enough that the track bar won't kill the good ride too badly. We'll see though.

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New Member of My Fleet

Adding this to the build thread because it goes to buy parts for the YJ! Traded my white 2019 Frontier for this black 2019 Frontier instead. Why?? 6-speed manual! The 4.0L V6 and 6-speed manual combo is a blast. Plus, I just think the truck looks awesome, a lot better than the white one did. I also dropped from 32K miles down to 20K, so that's nice.

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Quick build thread on it:


  • Morimoto LED headlights with DRL
  • Rigid Yellow LED Fogs
  • LED bulb/brake/etc bulbs everywhere (installed by me with resistors for turn signals to blink properly)
  • Nissan Motorsports (NISMO) 17's
  • 265/70R17 (31.6") General Grabber ATX
  • NISMO license plate frames
  • Power tailgate lock
  • Kenwood radio
  • Kenwood HD backup cam
  • Maestro RR to program all steering wheel controls and put an OBD gauge cluster on radio screen (I can read and erase codes from radio too - bye bye scanner)
  • All-weather floor liners
  • Bakflip MX4 tonneau
  • Under-hood LED strip activated automatically by hood with manual cutoff switch
  • KC Cyclone (flush mounted) in bed for bed lighting, tied to factory cargo lamp switch

Future Mods:
  • NISMO front steel bumper
  • Rigid 10" light bar for bumper
  • KC SAE driving lights for bumper
  • Possible winch for bumper
  • Shrockworks rear bumper
  • Flush mount Rigid LED backup lights in rear bumper
  • 4.56 Gears
  • Nissan Titan front differential swap
  • Detroit TrueTrac LSD in rear axle
That's about all I have to share about the truck here. It's a pretty sweet little truck, great to daily drive when not driving a Jeep! It's a lot of fun to drive with the 6sp manny tranny.
 
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I have decided I’m changing the name of my build thread from “Keep it Simple” to “No Compromises”. I originally called it keep it simple because the idea was “like stock, but improved”….while that is still how I operate, the Jeep just doesn’t feel that way. Keep it simple implies they it’s not too elaborate when in reality, I often do things in very elaborate, pain in the ass ways. It just doesn’t seem that simple anymore.

No compromises makes sense because this Jeep is exactly that, for my needs. My parents always have called me stubborn and I’d say they’re right for the most part. I don’t compromise on much. There is no part I won’t buy because it costs too much, and I usually won’t go with something I think is subpar simply because it’s cheaper or easier. In other words, I don’t really compromise if I can help it. As such, I am now deeming this Jeep the “no compromises” build, as I go further and further down the rabbit hole of trying to improve and modify it to my liking. :)
 
General Update:

I suppose I should update this so people don't start to think this Jeep is going to sit in my garage forever all taken apart and wasting its life. I haven't worked on the YJ much recently as I got my new truck in October and have mostly been focused on it. For that one I still want to buy two bumpers, lighting for each bumper, and I need a regeared front diff to match the rear regear I did. Other than that, that truck is basically done besides maintenance. Those last few items are pretty expensive and long lead time, so I'm kind of focusing on the YJ again.

Where I left off last I was taking my dash apart to take the harness and customize it and grab ignition and battery power from it as well as triggers from the high beam, parking lamp, parking brake, and some other circuits. The whole purpose of that was to power a switch panel I built to go in the radio slot since I moved my radio to the console. I got about halfway through that project and was getting tired of all the custom, on-the-fly wiring I was having to do in my head on the Jeep, standing in the garage outside the Jeep reaching in.

What I always wanted to do in the last few years was grab a factory dash harness and front end lighting harness from eBay that came from a Sahara/Renegage. The reason for those is they would have the built in fog light circuits. Jeep was lazy and if you had a base model, they stripped you of the fog light connector. If you had a Sahara, Renegade, or Canadian base model, then you either got the fogs or you got no fogs but at least got the wiring groundwork and they just left all the plugs unused. For me I had nothing, having an American SE.

I was in the process of building in fog light function, high beam driving light function, backup lights, and a daytime running light cutoff switch. The fogs were going to be enabled by the parking lamp circuit, so I could leave their switch on 24/7 and operate them by the headlights switch. The driving lights were going to be triggered automatically by the high beam circuit and I could also turn them on manually by the switch. The backup lights were going to be the same as driving lights, only triggered by reverse (still could turn on manually via switch) and finally, the daytime running light switch was going to be my way to manually cut off my ignition powered daytime running light. Well.....I FINALLY found a dash harness that had the fog wiring built in, and I also found a front end wiring harness that had the fog circuits as well.

Since the dash harness featured fogs, that eliminates the need for one of my switches, the fog switch. The driving lights I don't even have yet, so doing a bunch of wiring work for them at this point doesn't make any sense. The backup lights I initially wired straight to reverse....this still works perfectly fine and I have very little need for manually turning them on. The daytime running light cutoff, well I don't need a switch for that, I decided to build it into the harness and have the parking brake operate it. So basically I decided I no longer need the switch panel for the time being. Eventually I will, but not for now, and I will have freed up what would have been two of the switches.

So I ordered the two harnesses I found for a total of $100 from eBay. I received the dash harness first. It is very clean. There was only one damaged wire, which is a signal wire for the AC. It was only chafed, not damaged. Must have been rubbed against some metal before. I cut out the damaged section and spliced back together with a piece of new wire. All good. I don't even know if I'll ever add AC back to utilize that wire but just in case, it's fixed.

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This harness was really nice and I did not want to immediately start hacking it all up. I still have my stocker I can do that to. The only other things I needed to do in order to use it as-is were create a branch for the radio wiring to extend the wires out to my console radio, and I also needed to splice in a resistor to dim down my LED dash bulb for the heater control. I did so the night I received it, and everything worked great. It was simple enough to splice in the radio wires just using an adapter plug plugged into the radio harness. This leaves everything intact for the future. I wrapped the wiring in tape and zip tied it all the way down the harness. I ended the wires right next to the big cartridge style connectors that connect the dash harness to the tub/rear lighting harness. I ordered a Deutsch connector kit that I will use to connect the radio wiring to the radio wiring I already ran to the console.

I folded the radio wiring into a U-turn and zip tied it back to itself to aim it back towards the main harness for easier routing.

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Got these awesome metal tooth zip ties which work really well. Never heard of them before. Used them very liberally to secure the harness start to finish, ensuring it will never fall apart in the dash.

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For the heater bulb, I spliced in a 220 ohm resistor. The only purpose for this was that stock bulbs melt the heater control, so I wanted to run an LED. The LED's I use are too bright and run hot as well. Using a 220 ohm resistor out of my resistor assortment dims the bulb nicely and keeps the heat away too.

While I had the harness lying on the table in front of me, I decided to make one last change, which I mentioned earlier: the daytime running light automation. My idea for a daytime running light consists of something that kicks on when you flip the key to run or accessory. The problem with that is there is no way to turn it off if you want to idle dark at night (stealth mode style). I had the exact same problem in my truck, which was annoying for sure. The daytime running light on the truck is super bright and dims when the headlights are on. So my only options for night time on it were to turn the headlights off (DRL then goes super bright), or flip the lights to parking lights and still have everything but fogs/headlights on. I hated that so what I did was took a 5 pin relay, connected the relay coil and the power terminal to ignition power, grounded the relay coil to the parking brake wire in the truck, and then the output was connected to 87A. This way the power flows straight through the relay normally, but when you pull the parking brake, the relay cuts the daytime running light off. I took the same concept to the YJ. I had the harness out in front of me, so there was no reason not to. I'd rather it be automated by the brake rather than a manual switch anyways.

The YJ dash harness features a "radio illumination relay" which has an ignition power wire, parking lamp trigger, ground, and two wires that go to the stock radio. The purpose for it is to feed the stock radio full 12V power during the day so you can see the screen/buttons, and then it switches the radio to the dash 1-12V variable power so that it can be dimmer at night if desired. The relay triggers when you turn on the parking lights.

I took that relay and repurposed it for my needs and plugged in a new relay for best reliability. I snipped the ignition power wire and spliced it to two wires: the same one it already was (power through the relay) and to the relay coil wire. This way ignition will trigger the relay. I re-ran the ground wire over to the parking brake so that the parking brake will ground the relay when I set it. One of the wires going to the radio I cut and sealed, and the other I spliced to a longer wire that will splice to my existing daytime running light circuit.

So where this leaves me is that my new dash harness is set up to power my radio in the console, it will work fully like stock besides the radio, it can automatically disable my daytime running lights with the parking brake, and I can run an LED in the heater at comfortable brightness. That is all I need to do for the dash harness.

I went ahead and installed it yesterday, but I am still waiting for the Deutsch connector so I can actually hook it up to the radio extension I made previously. I also found a hardtop harness with the defroster circuit, so I will be dealing with that too. I don't want to button up the dash until I have all the wiring mods in place.

So what about the switch panel project?

Well, for the time being it is not needed. I've now eliminated 2 of the 4 switches that would go on it. I can't even think of anything I would want the other two switches for. Maybe winch operation? It usually takes two dash switches to run a winch...one to run the winch, and another to disable the one that runs the winch as a safety. I could maybe use the two leftover switches for that. For now, I'm going to install the switch panel anyways simply so it can cover the hole. It will just have a bunch of unused switches installed, no big deal.

Eventually the plan is a Double D Fab dash. Something like the below as an example. When I get to that point, I will have to go all custom gauges and everything. From there forward, I will have to build myself very custom dash wiring to make it all work, so that's why I'm glad I'm driving on the eBay harness so that I can doctor up the old harness for the custom job. When I get the custom dash, I will integrate all my switches into it. Until that point, I'm perfectly good with what I've got.

So that is what my holdup was, and it's over with. I waited all that time lazing out over a job I'm not even doing yet. Oh well. This will get me back on the road.
 
Front Lighting Harness

Everybody has seen me spend a bunch of time and effort on the front lighting harness....well I am doing it again since I finally found the fog-supported harness I always wanted. I'm just glad I can finally use a factory fog light switch. I love the little switch panel Jeep installed on the YJs, I always wanted to control fogs there like stock but I just couldn't get my hands on a harness to do so. Now that that issue is solved, I can get that functionality I wanted.

So I bought a harness for $30 from eBay. It is rough but none of that matters as I can fix pretty much anything as it comes. The goal is to once again route everything into my relay box.

The relays will be as follows:

-LED headlight heater - triggered by parking lamp
-Low beam
-High beam
-DRL dimmer 1 - triggered by parking lamp
-DRL dimmer 2 - triggered by parking lamp

The purpose of the DRL dimmers will be so that the DRL bulbs I use can be at their full brightness during the day, and then at night they will dim way down to be easy to look at at night. Think of a Jeep Gladiator or JL for what I'm talking about....the only difference is I don't have halos in my headlights and my parking lights are in the grille, not the fenders. I'm copying the style though, bright wire during day as a running light and then dimmed down to natural levels at night using resistors. Since they are switchback bulbs, they will turn off the white whenever I turn on the blinker and will blink a nice and bright amber on/off/on/off.

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People probably think I'm crazy to spend so much work on a daytime running light but it's just the functionality I want. My thing has always been similar to stock but with modern improvements, and I can think of nothing more modern, without looking ridiculous or overdone.

I still have not decided on smoked or clear parking lamp lenses. The clears make the bulbs look brighter and overall I think look better, but I am not sure what headlights I should run with them. Either way I will run the JW Speaker 8910, but I don't know if I should choose the shiny ones or the dark ones. The dark ones look less flashy, which I like, however I think the shiny lights will match the clear parking lamps better. I could use the dark JWs and the smoked parking lamps, but I don't know if I really want that because I like the clear lamps. I could use the clear lamps and the dark headlights I suppose....I need to do a photoshop and see what I like.

This is what it looks like with the clear lamps...I think it looks super sharp, just not sure if the darker JW speaker headlights would look right. Maybe I can photo shop that pic and see what I think.

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Once I get the front end harness all wired to the relays and such, I will be good to go. I can install it at that point and have factory actuated fog lights and a DRL that runs bright during the day and dims at night. Headlights will be some low quality LEDs for now and I will upgrade them to JW Speaker later.

As a reminder, this is what the DRL + turn signal looks like...clean and modern which is what I'm after. The white will go way down at night. I will not regularly drive with a towel draped over the windshield....that was to cushion my hood leaned up against it for a while in the garage.

 
Since I'm changing so much of this Jeep's wiring, why not mess with the hardtop harness too? I learned that the hardtops with wipers/washers also have the defroster wires too even if they are unused - all you need to run the defroster is a compatible piece of liftgate glass, a wiring harness, and the factory switch. I'm not doing the glass yet, that will be a project for later once I'm driving again.

I found a hardtop harness which basically is just the regular harness with a few extra wires and a timed relay added in. The relay makes sure the hardtop heater won't be on for too long and burn the rig down. I don't know that that would actually happen but it is there for safety regardless.

I found a harness from DeadJeep on eBay, bought it for $80. That's pricey, but it is what it is. I wanted to add the missing stock features I didn't have, and I knew I would pay to accomplish that. The harness finally shipped today, so I'll post pics when I receive it. That harness has the tail light wiring built in, so I'm probably going to pull the defrost stuff out of the eBay harness and marry it into my existing harness. Otherwise I have to drop the gas tank and replace the whole harness, which I don't want to do. Plus I tied in a bunch of wiring for the backup lights and stuff down there previously, which I really don't want to redo. Using only what I need from the eBay harness makes more sense.

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Well it wouldn't be me if I weren't changing courses right in the middle of projects. I was working on my headlight harness which was going to be wired intricately to my relay box with resistors to provide a bright daytime running light that dims with the lights being turned on. I got most of the way done with that project but was not happy with the way the wiring length fit the grille. Not to mention it was really "busy" with lots of wiring needed to perform each job. It was a real pain. Towards the end, I said screw it and bought a factory fog light supported headlight harness from eBay.

I got the new fog-light capable harness from eBay, hoping that I could go back to bone stock, do the little fix for the side markers and be done with it. This meant I was planning to hook up the stock headlight grounds, which are wires bolted to the grille with self tappers. Those holes wore out long ago, so I installed rivnuts.

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The harness arrived and it was all nasty. Most wires were heavily corroded and black under the insulation. Not wanting to fully refurbish that harness, I stopped messing with it. It's kind of disappointing. I wasn't expecting the best results ever, but I expected better than that. I took out most of my stock wiring harness in 2018 and it was very clean. I had practically no corrosion. I guess I keep hoping that things I buy off eBay will be in good shape, but they never are.

I decided to go back to the harness I installed a year ago. This is the one that I set up for an ignition DRL that is bright all the time. I ended up taking it apart and reworking it a bit with new diodes and resistors for the side markers. I put the parking lamps back to normal parking lamp function, no DRL. In doing this I was able to remove some wiring and make it a bit thinner. On this harness I had previously wired the grounds to my relay box, so that I don't have to bother with grounding to the grille. So now my riv-nuts are not needed. Oh well, I put bolts in them and will leave them alone. They can be future ground points if I ever need to wire something up. All the bulb sockets and headlight plugs on the final harness are brand new, so this harness should be my permanent one that lasts a lifetime.

Pics of the harness:

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Video of operation



So the harness is done, the important circuits are relayed, the wiring is sized properly, and a lot of load is gotten rid of by being LED! I'm pumped.
 
Headlights

So now it's time for headlights. I pretty much always knew I wanted the JW Speakers, but they were a tough pill to swallow. I finally have some money to spare so I decided to snag a set from Quadratec. They should deliver next week, pics to follow after that.

I've been doing some photoshopping to make sure I will like them. I think they will look sharp, assuming they look like the pics. However, I'm not sure what parking lamps I will run. I own smoked, amber, and clear lenses. I haven't decided what I like best, but it's between amber and smoked. The clears ain't happenin'. Which is funny because previously I thought they for sure would have been the right choice.

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I think the ambers provide a classic look, and the smoked provides a modern look. Honestly, I will probably use both and swap them out from time to time. I think I like the amber the best myself, but I like them both so much that I could see myself switching it up sometimes. I will likely just sell the clears or give them to someone who wants them.
 
Factory Switch Panel

As I have posted elsewhere on the forum, I've been working on populating my factory switch panel. From the factory, it can come with up to 3 switches: fog lamps, hardtop defroster, hardtop wiper/washer. If you have a soft top with no fog lamps, then you just have the switch panel with none of the switch holes cut out.

I had a hardtop and it only supported the wiper/washer, so I only had the one switch. I bought the fog switch and the hardtop heater switch off eBay.

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I got the hardtop defrost relay pulled out of the eBay harness and married it into my stock harness. It was a bunch of work but everything works. Turn on the ignition, press the switch, indicator light goes on for 10 minutes due to the timed relay and then goes out. The switch is a momentary switch that triggers the relay, then the relay latches. If you press the momentary switch again, it triggers the relay off. Pretty neat. I tested the wiring and now I do have the power at the hardtop window, so I know it works. Just need a heated piece of glass at this point.

For the fog lights, most of their function came from my new dash harness which includes fog light capability. From the factory, on 1994-1995 YJs, fogs are controlled with two relays. Relay 1, is the parking lamp relay. Parking light circuit triggers it, the fog switch grounds the relay. Once both switches are turned on, the relay is closed and the power flows out of it to relay 2. Relay 2 is the high beam relay. Power normally flows through that relay, and when you trigger the high beams, the relay opens and you lose the fog lights. I snipped the high beam wire so that they relay will no longer cut off. Now, I get fog light function anytime both switches are on. This way I can have fogs with parking lamps, low beam, and high beam, but if I turn off the headlights, fogs shut off. Pretty slick!
 
So what's left to do for now?

  • put the dash panel back on
  • secure all dash wiring
  • reassemble gauges, steering wheel, etc.
  • receive headlights and install
  • finish up floor sound deadener
  • follow up sound deadener with carpet install
  • change brake booster/master and bleed brakes
  • change steering linkage
  • inspect and reregister it
  • fill up gas
  • alignment
  • finally start driving!
I am hoping to be on the road by the end of March if everything works out right. I am sick and tired of the Tuffy glove box, so I think I am going to order a factory glove box off of eBay. I want the stock dash look back. The only thing that will not be stock is the Tuffy panel deleting my radio. That is ok, the radio is in the console now and that isn't changing because I'm not moving it back. But I would at least like to get the dash back to as stock as it can be.
 
Did some comparing between the smoke parking lamps and the ambers (amber left, smoked right). Looks like amber is the way go to. Significantly brighter. I'm ok with the look of either so I'd rather the one with brighter output. Amber it is.

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Headlights
Go figure, the headlights showed up and they were not at all like the photoshops! doesn't really matter though, I really like how they turned out. They look almost like a stock headlight, except vastly improved. They have a super sharp cutoff, the heater works intelligently and warms up fast, and I think they match all my LED bulbs nicely. Like I brought 2022 back to 1994. Mix of classic and modern.

Anyways, it's funny how this worked. Previously I was saying the clear housings were out of the question, and that it would either be smoke or amber. Then due to brightness I decided on amber. Well now, the smokes are out of the question. Both the clears and amber look good. The clears match the headlights nearly perfectly, but I kind of like the classic amber look, and the ambers are a teeny bit brighter. I may swap back and forth from time to time. We'll see.

Unboxing impression
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Headlights with amber parking lamps

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Headlights with clear parking lamps

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Low beam pattern, high beam pattern

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With KC amber fogs on

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Glove Box

I'm kind of on a "back to stock" kick....not on things like suspension, bumpers, or lighting, but the dash and how things are operated. Many moons ago, in 2014, I spent $180 of the $500 I had at the time as broke ass college student, to buy the tuffy glove box. I thought the thing was so cool, I had to have it. I already had the console, and insisted that I needed the glove box too. Got it delivered with the matching key/lock and everything. Installed it, and it rattled like crazy. After years of rattling I found a way to add some preload to the door with rubber bumpers that fixed the rattling, but honestly, I never really liked the look.

Not my pic but you get the idea...

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The stock glove box has a nice open pocket above the glove box door where you can throw things. Good for a passenger to stick their phone or whatever so it doesn't fall out of their pocket. The tuffy only has a grab handle and the lockable part, and the lockable part is easily half the size of the OEM lockable portion.

So I wanted to go back to stock. I've got the dash apart and am about to put it back together, so now is the time. I bought a really nice 94-95 glove box off eBay that was in great shape. It came with a lock and key. The cylinder can not be rekeyed without destroying the cover plate on the cylinder, so I bought a non-locking latch to replace the one in the glove box.

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The only thing wrong with the glove box is that 2-3 of the rivets holding the door to the hinge are missing. Honestly, that might even be stock. Either way it won't be a problem and if it turns into a problem, I will source out another door. I'm not worried about it and I'm just glad I'll get back to the stock look. I still have a Tuffy console for locking things up, so I really do not need glove box security.